I recently stripped down a pair of strut tubes and I took this pic down the tube. With the right reflected light, you can get a decent look down there. Enough to see the center portion convex outward and the weld bead around the perimeter of the dome:

So any idea how much interference you have? Is it something that you could "workaround" by chamfering the bottom corner of the strut body? Take a little material off the OD at the bottom? Just a little? Maybe? Without creating a weak spot and blowing out the strut on rapid compression?

2 hours ago, madkaw said:

So disappointed that the modified gland nuts do not get the job done . Even modified I only have 1-1/2 turns on the gland nut . Still showing 6mm of nut . They only machined off 2mm when they should have done 4. 
Called MSA - and it’s basically my problem . It’s my fault that the strut tube has a factory weld bead at the bottom . I could somehow grind the weld down at the bottom of the tube - yeah . So these modified glands are not a guarantee that these will fit your early Z . My car being a 9/71 isn’t that early - but early enough I guess . Now I get to pay a machinist to modify the modified gland nuts that are supposed to fit my year car - woohoo. 
Not much sympathy from MSA , they just sell the shocks .

Sorry if whom you spoke to sounded as you describe. We're all a bit hair-on-fire trying to keep up with short staff, but that isn't an excuse.

1. Please private message me about who you spoke to here.
2. Before I (and/or Lee) respond to the rest, I need to confirm that the image you included is torqued down; and using the diagram I included below, you're saying on that strut the same gap is 6mm? It is hard (for me anyway) to tell from your image.
3. Well over 90% of the 240Z's, including many 70-71's, have been within the 4mm gap tolerance with the original gland nut. So far, of the very few single digit numbers of anomalies we've heard of, the modified KONI gland nut has brought the gap back into their prescribed tolerance of 4mm just fine. Yours would be the first to not be solved.
4. Please do not grind anything until I (and/or Lee) get back to you.

Thank you for your patience.

Joesph, 

I will PM you about who I spoke to. 
Yes my measurement was 6mm. Looking at the pic you provided is not representative of a properly torqued nut . If it is the same as what I was provided them the diagram is showing a nut with 1 thread engaged. My nut Has only 4.5 threads . To get to 4mm after torquing ,  there would only be about 2 threads at most showing . 

8 hours ago, madkaw said:

Joesph, 

I will PM you about who I spoke to. 
Yes my measurement was 6mm. Looking at the pic you provided is not representative of a properly torqued nut . If it is the same as what I was provided them the diagram is showing a nut with 1 thread engaged. My nut Has only 4.5 threads . To get to 4mm after torquing ,  there would only be about 2 threads at most showing . 

Definitely not 4mm in my image. Just made that to be clear and confirm to everybody what the measurement was supposed to be measured from and to. I think Lee may be back but I'm sure is trying to unbury himself. I hope to get some confirmation before the end of the day (I'll try anyway).

Man, Koni has a lot of events! Lee had to go back on the road to another one before he could finish catching up on all requests and so forth. I believe he gets back mid next week, but I gave the impression here that he was back and soon to be jumping in, which was inaccurate. My fault, sorry for the confusion.

Well I like the way they ride . I’m running about a 1/4 turn out for all these wonderful roads around here . The ride is decent and can be made softer than my non- adjustable KYB’s - but just a smidge . I take a long drive tomorrow so I will really give them some miles . Nice curvy Indiana roads . I’m taking my friend gearhead with me for the ride . Actually I’ll have two passengers l but cranky arse has to stay in the back . 

So your one passenger is really cranky, and the other is really shifty?

So your one passenger is really cranky, and the other is really shifty?

!!!!!!!!! DAD JOKE ALERT !!!!!!!!

Man's got to know his limitations. 

I’m about to install the Konis with Eibach springs and didn’t consider if I need bump stops.  Do I need bump stops in the rear?   Also was it determined what that metal bushing is for that comes with the Konis and exactly how it installs?

2 hours ago, adivin said:

I’m about to install the Konis with Eibach springs and didn’t consider if I need bump stops.  Do I need bump stops in the rear?   Also was it determined what that metal bushing is for that comes with the Konis and exactly how it installs?

Yeah, you really should install bump stops with any spring that lowers the car. The bushing installs big end up and is designed to fit right up into the insulator.

Also, have some anti-seize on hand for the threads on the shocks and the gland nuts. Tighten the nut on the shock shaft slowly to avoid any heat buildup.

Edited October 4, 20204 yr by jfa.series1

2 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

Yeah, you really should install bump stops with any spring that lowers the car. The bushing installs big end up and is designed to fit right up into the insulator.

Oh well I guess the suspension isn't going in today.  Any recommendations on bump stops or which ones to avoid? 

Thanks for the info on the metal bushing.  I got it now.