Does the vent line that has a "U turn" in it need to have that u turn for a functional reason?  If not, I think I'll have the guys that are cleaning my tank reverse it?  Good idea, bad? 

 

Motor tilts to the passenger's side. Make a line down the center of the cam towers so your lobes will be straight up to the tilted motor. If you have them pointed straight up to your eyes they're off a little.

That 180 degree evap hose has to be done or it won't vent right. It will pinch and cause fumes not to evacuate to the tank. I used two 90s PEX 3/4" to make mine. I can find a pic later or google "90 degree pex siteunseen classiczcars.com" I'm using my phone and don't have access to my info on my laptop.

I can do better tomorrow  when I'm home with my computer.

 

If the shop will reverse the output from that vent to eliminate the need for a 180 degree turn in the hose - DO IT - far better solution. There is no need for the hose to be bent, nor reason that vent points the wrong way.

 

 

Here's the aftermarket spray bars

 

I called and had them reverse the vent tube that has a "u turn" in it. 

 

Might as well have them block off the rest of the unused vent and evaporative tubes while it's there..

You'll probably notice that a part of each cam lobe has a brown stain, where the rocker arm did not wear on it.  That is the base circle, where you'll be setting the "lash", or gap.  You don't have to be exact on the cam lobes up or down, you can also check that you're around the middle of the stained area.

Some people take pride in doing them hot, but many just do them all cold, then check them when hot.  They're usually still in spec.  One tip - use a heavy hammer to tap the lock nut loose.  They can be incredibly tight.  Many of us have oil in our blood now from busting knuckles while adjusting valve lash.

Here's the 1976 specs.

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You'll probably notice that a part of each cam lobe has a brown stain, where the rocker arm did not wear on it.  That is the base circle, where you'll be setting the "lash", or gap.  You don't have to be exact on the cam lobes up or down, you can also check that you're around the middle of the stained area.

Some people take pride in doing them hot, but many just do them all cold, then check them when hot.  They're usually still in spec.  One tip - use a heavy hammer to tap the lock nut loose.  They can be incredibly tight.  Many of us have oil in our blood now from busting knuckles while adjusting valve lash.

Here's the 1976 specs.

Thank you.  I set the valves cold.  It took me awhile to figure out that keeping the lock nut fairly tight helps. Also, I took the gauges out of the stack and then just put them on the outside of the stack for the next time I need them. 

5 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Might as well have them block off the rest of the unused vent and evaporative tubes while it's there..

Are you telling me that none of the vent tubes are necessary?  

9 hours ago, z8987 said:

Are you telling me that none of the vent tubes are necessary?  

The only Vent that is necessary - is the one you are having turned around. The one on the lower part of the tank and the one of the other side of the top of the tank should be plugged.

18 hours ago, Carl Beck said:

Might as well have them block off the rest of the unused vent and evaporative tubes while it's there..

Done. Only one vent 

I was told today that blocking off these vents limits the ability to fill the tank and that I should put it back to original??  A little confused about this.

 

Also, I’m looking for a clutch box and peddle for a series 1.  I’m planning on installing a manual transmission to replace the auto?