SteveJ Posted February 12, 2019 Share #25 Posted February 12, 2019 (edited) 12 minutes ago, z8987 said: Where is the return. I had no idea there was a return. I can probably figure it out. I”m assuming it’s a line from the engine back to the tank. But why? What fuel is returned. The red arrow points to the supply. The yellow points to the return. When the float bowls are full, the floats block more fuel from coming into the carburetors, so the fuel that the fuel pump is pushing through the line needs to go somewhere. That somewhere is back to the tank via the return line. Edited February 12, 2019 by SteveJ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z8987 Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share #26 Posted February 12, 2019 46 minutes ago, SteveJ said: The red arrow points to the supply. The yellow points to the return. When the float bowls are full, the floats block more fuel from coming into the carburetors, so the fuel that the fuel pump is pushing through the line needs to go somewhere. That somewhere is back to the tank via the return line. Thank you for taking the time to so clearly point this out. I know it takes time to make it this clear, but I really appriciate it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pmg Posted February 12, 2019 Share #27 Posted February 12, 2019 Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z8987 Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share #28 Posted February 12, 2019 47 minutes ago, Pmg said: Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought. I've been looking for an old truck, and have been without a project for a couple years. I have two jeeps that I'm selling to convert to "Z dollars". I forgot how I need a project to keep motivated. I've never even been a passenger in a Z. I've always loved them from a far. This will be the first one I've ever actually been in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted February 12, 2019 Share #29 Posted February 12, 2019 2 hours ago, z8987 said: Thank you for taking the time to so clearly point this out. I know it takes time to make it this clear, but I really appriciate it. No problem. It was easy since you were good enough to post a photo that had your fuel rail in it. I didn't even need to do a search. The source and return will be even more obvious when you see how your fuel pump is connected. The return on the fuel rail has a small orifice that acts similar to a fuel pressure regulator (as pointed out elsewhere by @Captain Obvious). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrapin Z Posted February 12, 2019 Share #30 Posted February 12, 2019 3 hours ago, z8987 said: Sorry. I decided to hold on to them. No problem, The one close up wheel pic you showed was for a late 73 (TOPY 11 73). I was kinda looking for 70 wheels. Looks like your having a fun time with the car. Enjoy....... If you haven't already I highly suggest you download this It can answer a lot of your questions. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/66-1970-240z-factory-service-manual-body-chassis-volume/ and this one: https://www.classiczcars.com/files/file/20-1970-71-240z-factory-service-manuals/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z8987 Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share #31 Posted February 12, 2019 3 hours ago, Pmg said: Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z8987 Posted February 12, 2019 Author Share #32 Posted February 12, 2019 3 hours ago, Pmg said: Freaking ridiculous deal! Congratulations, well bought. for what ever reason the forum only allows me to post a response to this post. So here goes, it's not realated to this post. I like the idea of keeping my postings about my car under one thread, if admin suggest otherwise I will try to post under specific topics. Right now I'm trying to start the car. I've go no spark at the plugs. At least I tested the number 1 plug. It's been a long time, and I've done a little reading here, but I'm at a loss. The coil has spark. What next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 12, 2019 Share #33 Posted February 12, 2019 Points are very simple (no offense) they close and current flows through them and to ground, they open, current stops, and spark happens. Make sure that the other side of the points has a good ground back to the battery/alternator, and that the points actually close to make the circuit, and that they fully open to break it. You have to make it and you have to break it. You can test both with a meter, under the distributor cap, with the key on. Everything is exposed and ready for poking. Not sure what "coil has spark" means either.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted February 13, 2019 Share #34 Posted February 13, 2019 4 hours ago, Zed Head said: Not sure what "coil has spark" means either.... Ditto. Is the coil wire to the dist. putting out a good hot spark or do you mean you have 12 volts going into the coil? If you've got a hot spark at the coil wire, the points look good and are adjusted properly, replace the condenser. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted February 13, 2019 Share #35 Posted February 13, 2019 If you've got a hot spark at the coil wire but nothing at the plugs, put the rotor back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted February 13, 2019 Share #36 Posted February 13, 2019 It could be a bad distributor cap, too. When I was buying the 260Z, the guy was knocking $700 off the price since it wouldn't run. It turned out that it was just a bad distributor cap. I put on a new cap and got the car running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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