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I've been looking for a project


z8987

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16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I couldn't find any carb stuff in the 70 or 71 FSM's.  But 72 might get you started.  Those are round top SU's I believe.  ZTherapy sells a CD that describes how to make them work too.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/11-240z/

Click the "Spotter's Guide" in this link - 

http://www.ztherapy.com/

Looks like ztherapy has a rebuild kit and a video?  How cool is that. I called and left a message. I want to talk to somebody about this before I order.  

 

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google.com any questions you have and always include classiczcars.com in your search.

"ztherapy rebuild kit classiczcars.com"

https://www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=y5RkXMCzMZK2tQXdyrmoAQ&q=ztherapy+rebuild+kit+classiczcars.com&oq=ztherapy+rebuild+kit+classiczcars.com&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-hp.12...2604.21327..22299...0.0..0.199.5638.1j36......0....1.......5..41j0j46i131j0i10j46i10j0i10i30j33i299j33i160j33i22i29i30.H4upG4wXJgU

I bought the rebuild kits and they came with the dvd. Never touched the inner parts of a caberurator before, watched the video a few times and rebuilt mine to new working condition. Take your time and plenty of pictures for reference. Soaking the parts in lacquer thinner then buffing them out with 0000 steel wool made like new. Good luck!

Edited by siteunseen
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2 hours ago, z8987 said:

I really can't do this witout you guys. I'm learning I now know what you mean by the piston, and oil.  I turned it upside down, and guess what there's oil in it.  Not the proper amount now, but there was oil. What type of oil and how much?? ?  

The pistons are black and it took a little work to wiggle them out.   I'll attach a picture.  Can I just clean these up, add oil then try the start sequence again? should the carbs be pulled rebuilt ?   I'd sure like to hear it run before I dig much deeper. 

 

 

012c93336509e3169253ecfa45c559a81a2cd70285.jpg

0138606f98165f674560d15bc4e4d0cab24485626e.jpg

  Rule #1, DON'T BEND THE BRASS NEEDLE that protrudes from the piston bottom. Start with a can of lacquer thinner, a soft brush, and some cotton rags. Clean every surface that you can reach. All those black surfaces in the pic are actually aluminum. When everything is clean reassemble the piston and dome onto the carb. The piston should slide up and down with no interference. Add 20 wt oil or ATF to the fill line on the small black stem. It might be a good idea to take a look in the float chambers to see if there's any flotsam or jetsom in there.

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1 hour ago, Mark Maras said:

  Rule #1, DON'T BEND THE BRASS NEEDLE that protrudes from the piston bottom. Start with a can of lacquer thinner, a soft brush, and some cotton rags. Clean every surface that you can reach. All those black surfaces in the pic are actually aluminum. When everything is clean reassemble the piston and dome onto the carb. The piston should slide up and down with no interference. Add 20 wt oil or ATF to the fill line on the small black stem. It might be a good idea to take a look in the float chambers to see if there's any flotsam or jetsom in there.

She started.  wood

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I'm going to clean the fuel lines with carb cleaner, and I ordered a new inline fuel filter. I should have ordered a couple now that I think of it.  now the I know the car runs I'm willing to tear into it further.  I think I'll pull the carbs off for cleaning and start replacing all the hoses. 

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Believe it or not, I just checked in the glove box.  First time.  All the receipts and records for the car since 1982, when it was bought by the family I bought it from.  They bought it in 1982, ever mile is documented since 1982. Every drive, and every mile documented in the same type of note pad I use.  And get this, he bought it from a lady that lived on the same street I use to live on in Sacramento.  As a matter of fact, it may be the same complex because it's a short street, and if I recall there is only one apartment complex and a cemetery.  

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1 minute ago, wheee! said:

Production models made after Sept (9), are generally classed as the next model year. Example: production date (on the door jamb) 9/75 is a 1976 model.

I don’t think there is a door plate! Is there another way to tell

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