I've been looking for a project

[siteunseen]

That's Red-Kote tank liner. I coated both mine with it and it works great, one in 2011 the next 2015. I wouldn't waste time or money on the outside of your's, it looks good to me. Get your evap hoses replaced and let it go. 

To have a visual put a glass fuel filter before the fuel pump.

 

 

 

[siteunseen]

If you can smell that chemically smell of the tank liner wait until you can not. That's when it's cured and ready for fuel.

[z8987]

35 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

If you can smell that chemically smell of the tank liner wait until you can not. That's when it's cured and ready for fuel.

Thank you. I've got it in my shop by the door with a fan blowing the fumes out the door.  It will have lots of time to cure. 

 

[Carl Beck]

also make sure the fuel line out and the return line in are not blocked.. that has happened to a more than a couple people.. with Red Coat  or others restricting fuel flow. Lucky for us today - we can stick a camera almost anywhere in the tank.  Tank looks fine for now - if you later decide you are going to do a full first class Refresh or even a Restoration it will easy enough to pull it back out later.

 

[siteunseen]

Welding wire works good to run through the lines and vents to make sure they aren't obstructed.  Follow up with a good compressed air blow job. 8^)

[w3wilkes]

There are about 1/4" thick flat rubber pads that go in these red outlined indents. I think with these pads and the rubber lining on the tank straps the tank is electrically isolated from the rest of the car. I believe that's why the fuel gauge sending unit has a ground wire. When you mount the tank back in the car be sure that you have the wires for the sending unit and fuel pump where you can get them and don't bury them between the tank and body of the car or you'll have to lower the tank again. Ask me how I know this?

Sure wish I'd known that I could've eliminated all those vents! Oh well...

Edited February 16, 2019 by w3wilkes

[siteunseen]

Those fuel level sending units on 240s are a pita to get wired back up. Nail head connectors is what I've always heard them called. When you do get them back on slather them with liquid electrical tape. If you ruin the OE ones you can use female spade wire connectors.

 

[240260280]

First A/T in USA arrived in Oct. 1969 ?

[z8987]

Removed. 

[z8987]

On 2/15/2019 at 4:06 PM, w3wilkes said:

There are about 1/4" thick flat rubber pads that go in these red outlined indents. I think with these pads and the rubber lining on the tank straps the tank is electrically isolated from the rest of the car. I believe that's why the fuel gauge sending unit has a ground wire. When you mount the tank back in the car be sure that you have the wires for the sending unit and fuel pump where you can get them and don't bury them between the tank and body of the car or you'll have to lower the tank again. Ask me how I know this?

Sure wish I'd known that I could've eliminated all those vents! Oh well...

What should I use to fasten these bumpers back on ? 

 

[Carl Beck]

7 hours ago, z8987 said:

What should I use to fasten these bumpers back on ? 

 

A small amount of silicone adhesive  will hold them in place.

[w3wilkes]

11 hours ago, z8987 said:

Removed. 

I think this is still used for the 1 remaining tank vent and the fuel filler line vent along with the line that goes to the Flow Guide Valve in the engine bay. Is this true @Carl Beck? My Fuel Guide valve still has the line from the vapor tank, is caped on the inlet from the air cleaner and just left open on the line to the crank case with the crank inlet plugged.

 

 

Edited February 17, 2019 by w3wilkes