z8987 Posted March 21, 2019 Author Share #133 Posted March 21, 2019 I pulled the master cylinder resivour off. It's dried out and it looks like some type of corrosion. The master cylinder itself is full of crud! Do I need to pull the unit off the firewall and flush/clean it? I'm cleaning the reservoirs and will blow out the lines. I'm just not sure what to do with the unit on the firewall? How far should I tear into the brakes I have all the hubs off. When I first brought the car home I had to dismantle the rear hubs and brakes in order to move the car. Now the brakes are dialed way back. I'm looking for all around advise on this pice of the project. So far the fuel system is complete. Cooling system is almost complete. Carburetors have been removed and cleaned. I backed the car out of the shop today to flush the block with water. That is the first time I've ever driven a 240Z, or any Z. Reverse with no brakes. The car seemed to run pretty well for the short time it was running. It backfires through both carburetors when I tried to increase the throttle ? Moving along. I have a goal now, I just can't remember what it is. It's a date I want to finish it and take it to a car show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted March 21, 2019 Share #134 Posted March 21, 2019 The brakes are the most important system on any car, pull the M/C and the booster, if the inner cylinder of the M/C is in good shape you may be able to restore it with a rebuild kit but then a new M/C is cheap at about $110. Brake fluid may have leaked into the booster so you will need to check that out, clean up and repaint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted March 21, 2019 Share #135 Posted March 21, 2019 You need to see if the booster will hold a vacuum. A vacuum gauge will be needed to accomplish this. Many fuel pressure gauges will also measure vacuum. It would be easiest to measure on an idling car. Then engine acts as the air pump. Plumb the vacuum gauge between the booster (the black thing on the firewall) and the check valve. Run the car, pull vacuum down and cut the car off. See if the vacuum holds or drops slowly. When master cylinders look like this, they have generally already leaked into the booster. The brake fluid destroys the diaphragm in the booster making it tear. Reconditioned boosters are available from vendors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 21, 2019 Share #136 Posted March 21, 2019 Aren't these 240Z brake parts hard to find? You guys are making it sound like it's a simple go to the store, swap the parts. Especially the Master-Vac. Might be worthwhile to disassemble it and seal any small tears in the diaphragm before they get big. You know that brake fluid has probably been in there, the paint's peeling from the bottom of the booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 21, 2019 Share #137 Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) I bought all my 240's brake stuff off amazon.com. Rotors and pads, new reservoirs and master cylinder, booster to. Best prices I found. The rears are different though. You can put new cylinders on for $50 or $200 for the OE style. I went the $50 route. On your thermostat I would say get a Nissan, they're bigger and more robust than the chain stores. I think mine's a 160 degree and my car idles in my garage at 176 degrees with zero wind flow. I'm sure it drops when I'm driving. zcardepot.com has everything you need in one place or you can search for nissan p/ns and get your local dealership to order stuff for you. Edited March 21, 2019 by siteunseen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted March 21, 2019 Share #138 Posted March 21, 2019 52 minutes ago, Zed Head said: Aren't these 240Z brake parts hard to find? You guys are making it sound like it's a simple go to the store, swap the parts. Especially the Master-Vac. Might be worthwhile to disassemble it and seal any small tears in the diaphragm before they get big. You know that brake fluid has probably been in there, the paint's peeling from the bottom of the booster. I believe most of the boosters are available reman'd. Although the smaller 7" boosters have a premium. He could also send it to a rebuilder and have it reworked. I have tried sealing that diaphragm in the past and have been unable to get satisfactory results. Harmon Brakes in GA is one possibility. If the OP is really industrious he could rebuild it himself like in the booster rebuild thread. Reman'd boosters normally come unfinished; the boosters from a rebuilder come looking like new Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted March 21, 2019 Share #139 Posted March 21, 2019 (edited) Last year I couldn't find any new, nor remanufactured 6/7" boosters for my 72 240Z ... the reman's at that time said they had no cores to work with. There were remanufactures that would rebuild yours - if you sent it to them though one of the Major Auto Parts Stores. I did not like that option, to easy to get lost on all the handling by different people. Oh yes, I hasten to add when I did find the right size boosters on line - I ordered them - when they arrived they were the wrong size (1973 size) - so had to return them. So I sent mine to Booster Dewey in Oregon. His web sight doesn't mention rebuilding 240Z booster - but I called him - and one of the guys that works there owns a 240Z, so they did them as well. I sent him my original and had it back about 7 days later. It wasn't cheap - AIR $165.00.- but I was happy with the turn around time and quality of work. Might want to give them a call if you can't find someone closer to you..1-503-238-8882, 4335 SE 63rd Ave. Portland, OR 97206 http://boosterdeweyexchange.com While you are at it and everything is apart - replace it or rebuild it now. (nothing lasts forever). fWIW, Carl B. Edited March 21, 2019 by Carl Beck Edited URL and Phone for Booster Dewey 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrapin Z Posted March 21, 2019 Share #140 Posted March 21, 2019 I did not call to check but Motorsports Auto still lists them for $150 + a big core charge. I got mine from them years back. Still working good too. https://www.thezstore.com/store/merchant.mvc? Make sure to check the reaction disc is in place when you reassemble it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patcon Posted March 21, 2019 Share #141 Posted March 21, 2019 $150 or so is pretty typical of a rebuild service. I saw 7"ers for sale a while back but they were like $250 or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terrapin Z Posted March 21, 2019 Share #142 Posted March 21, 2019 If I had known of a good local rebuilder that was the same rate I would have done that. If I needed another one done I would try Carls peeps in Portland Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z8987 Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share #143 Posted March 22, 2019 2 hours ago, Carl Beck said: Last year I couldn't find any new, nor remanufactured 6/7" boosters for my 72 240Z ... the reman's at that time said they had no cores to work with. There were remanufactures that would rebuild yours - if you sent it to them though one of the Major Auto Parts Stores. I did not like that option, to easy to get lost on all the handling by different people. Oh yes, I hasten to add when I did find the right size boosters on line - I ordered them - when they arrived they were the wrong size (1973 size) - so had to return them. So I sent mine to Booster Dewey in Oregon. His web sight doesn't mention rebuilding 240Z booster - but I called him - and one of the guys that works there owns a 240Z, so they did them as well. I sent him my original and had it back about 7 days later. It wasn't cheap - AIR $165.00.- but I was happy with the turn around time and quality of work. Might want to give them a call if you can't find someone closer to you..1-503-238-8882, 4335 SE 63rd Ave. Portland, OR 97206 http://boosterdeweyexchange.com While you are at it and everything is apart - replace it or rebuild it now. (nothing lasts forever). fWIW, Carl B. And what should I do at all four corners. I have the wheels off and ready to start these also. The drum brakes look like they have some brakes left and the wear on the drum looks even. I haven't worked on brakes in a while, so I'm not sure of the terms. But I think it's the calipers, should I get new ones or rebuild these? I don't mind putting a little money into this thing. I want to have all good equipment on it that I install. S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reptoid Overlords Posted March 22, 2019 Share #144 Posted March 22, 2019 I would get a rebuild kit for the calipers. I'm a ZX owner, so I've not yet had the pleasure of dealing with Z car rear drums. The rebuild kit is simply a few seals. Once you remove the piston (compressed air though an open bleeder valve) you'll likely notice decades of gunk and sediment. Clean it, reseal it, and you're good to go. Check for burrs or imperfections in the walls/piston of course. Sent from my N9130 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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