I've been looking for a project

[Carl Beck]

1 hour ago, w3wilkes said:

I think this is still used for the 1 remaining tank vent and the fuel filler line vent along with the line that goes to the Flow Guide Valve in the engine bay. Is this true @Carl Beck? My Fuel Guide valve still has the line from the vapor tank, is caped on the inlet from the air cleaner and just left open on the line to the crank case with the crank inlet plugged.

 

 

After our discussion on the this forum some time ago - we decided the easiest / best way to eliminate the Gasoline Vapor Recovery System (GVRS) - was to use Nissan’s non-GVRS system.  In which case line from the Vapor Liquid Separator in the rear is also eliminated.

 

http://zhome.com/Racing/FuelTankVaporLineMod/FuelTankVaporMod.htm  

[w3wilkes]

Thanks! I had not noticed that on ZHome before.

[w3wilkes]

On 2/14/2019 at 1:40 PM, z8987 said:

Is this the normal method to conceal wires ? 

Yes, looks just like my series 1 car. If you go electric fuel pump the connector to jumper to get power back to the fuel pump wires is in that bundle of wires. The car has wiring for an electric pump already installed, that's the other pair of wires back at the fuel gauge sending unit back at the tank. It's a good idea to put an inertia switch in the jumper loop so the fuel pump would be shut off in a crash.

[NVZEE]

An image in Carl’s post is similar to something I’ve wondered about: Could a 3D printer make a frame or form to “guide” a fuel hose through bends to prevent kinking? That’s one of the details that makes replacing NLA lines with bulk hose so challenging, rather than finding pre-formed hose somewhere. Sorry this is off the thread a bit ...

[z8987]

I think my mechanical fuel pump has failed. I took it apart and cleaned it up, but it's still not working. I ordered a new one at O'reillys, it will be in tomorrow.  I've read a little about electric fuel pumps, I like the idea of staying mechanical, what are most people doing?  Can we go electrical and still stay original ? 

 

[w3wilkes]

Depends on what you call original. The wiring harness is prewired for an electric fuel pump. You've removed the evap tank and removed venting from the fuel tank, turned the remaining top vent in the tank 180 degrees. If you're an original purist you should probably stay with the mechanical pump. Here's a thread on rebuilding the original pump.

 

[z8987]

21 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

Depends on what you call original. The wiring harness is prewired for an electric fuel pump. You've removed the evap tank and removed venting from the fuel tank, turned the remaining top vent in the tank 180 degrees. If you're an original purist you should probably stay with the mechanical pump. Here's a thread on rebuilding the original pump.

 

I'm definitely not a purist. The gas tank, and the venting seemed like things that could possibly be a safety item, so I'm good with changing them.   

[z8987]

I installed a new fuel pump this evening and ran the car a little longer than I was able to in the past.  I notice the oil pressure come up on the gauge.  After running it a little, I took the cam cover off to see how it looked.  I was looking to see if it was oiling properly, or at least what I think properly would look like.

I then bumped the starter a little to see what was happening under there.  It looked like a couple lovers were not being properly oiled. I have another oil bar that was recommended I use to replace the one I currently have in place.  I’m soaking both of them to get them clean.

When I removed the old one the screws were loose, the bolt seemed tight.  The two end pieced were pretty loose, is this normal, they just came right out while I was cleaning it?

I’ll install the newer one tomorrow.

 

[grannyknot]

7 hours ago, z8987 said:

 The two end pieced were pretty loose, is this normal, they just came right out while I was cleaning it?

That is one of the problems with those oil bars, when you reinstall it spray some brake cleaner in the threaded hole, blow it out and put a dab of RTV on the threads and tighten the screws.  I have found a welders tip cleaner a good tool to clean out the oil spray holes, just don't make those holes any larger.

 

[Captain Obvious]

9 hours ago, z8987 said:

The two end pieced were pretty loose, is this normal, they just came right out while I was cleaning it?

Haha! I think it depends on your definition of "normal".

If you mean "Do they all do that?", then the answer is "Yes."
If you mean "Is it really supposed to do that?" then the answer is "No."

It would be abnormal if yours didn't fall apart. Up for philosophical debate if the corollary to that means yours is normal.

Anyway, jokes aside, that's the whole reason you're replacing yours with the newer design.  

[z8987]

8 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha! I think it depends on your definition of "normal".

If you mean "Do they all do that?", then the answer is "Yes."
If you mean "Is it really supposed to do that?" then the answer is "No."

It would be abnormal if yours didn't fall apart. Up for philosophical debate if the corollary to that means yours is normal.

Anyway, jokes aside, that's the whole reason you're replacing yours with the newer design.  

Thank you. 

 

[z8987]

I've been using THE SKYBRYTE COMPANY 1275 OSPHO GAL Metal Treatment Coating, should I use a respirator when using this product?