What to save

[Nigel Mulvey]

I have decided to grab what I can off my 260 2+2 and scrap the shell (which is pretty damaged anyway). Apart from the obvious - body panels, windscreen, seats, engine, box - can anyone suggest anything else I might want to salvage to sell off.

This has to be done quickly ie within one day so I can free up the storage space to put the 260 project car into long term storage (unless you still want it James).

[2ManyZs]

You might be ahead to get as much as possible of it... never know when you might need a gauge, wiring harness section... or someone else might be willing to pay you for one.:devious:

Take an extra day maybe... but if you have a place to put it, I'd take everything off it I could... especially since parts are harder to come by "Down Under".......

[drunkenmaster]

Sent you an email, Im coming up on the weekend :rambo:

[AxtellZ]

I'm with Keith on this one!

If you have any means at all to stash parts, keep all you can- if for no reason other than Ebay- it's amazing what will sell.

And i can't tell the amount of times i have needed some obscure part, or had a friend that did. A gauge, a knob, some interior panel, light, the list goes on and on...

Hell, i've been known to send distant friends climbing through the mountains to an old parts car to fend off snakes and bees, just to find a certain gauge, or maybe turn signal switch.....Hey Keith, have you heard this story beforeLOL ?

You, my friend, are a great man. Thanks again for your help!!

Anyway, if you can part it into storable boxes- keep all you can!

my $0.02US, Jeremiah

[Z Kid]

Just a thought, a 2+2 in pieces takes up a shitload more room than a complete 2+2(I found this the hard way). You would want the diff, the dash, all front body panels, maybe some of the console bits, the manual pedal box, others may want struts etc. I did it the wrong way, if you have space, put the whole 2+2 round behind your shed and use it as a nother storage facility.

And If you are cutting it up, can I have the rear slam panel above the lights, providing its pretty rust free.

Also if you can, be very careful and save the chrome trim aorund the windscreen, doesn't seem like much, but there are bastards over here charging 140 bucks, and getting it for them.

Cheers Chris

[JEFF]

I stash parts where ever there is a couple of sq. inches.

IE: 2 dash clocks on the shelf in master walkin closet, one dash panel(between dash & windshield) under my dresser, 2 large shelving units in the garage stuffed full of misc. stuff, garage attic w/ boxes of parts - windshield,hatch glass,& other larger items.

Grab all you can -- stuff your pillow or whatever!!!:classic:

- Jeff

[240 in OZ]

Nigel

What colour is the interior trim? If it is black I may be interested in buying it from you. Im after all of the diamond quilted vinyl. Also may be interested in the rear overriders. Let me know off list.

Joseph

[Gav240z]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the 2+2's have a 3.9 or is it 3.7 diff. What's the ratio for our 240z's again?

I'm looking for a higher ratio diff. But you might want that.

Anyone know if the rear license plate light cover from a 260z will fit a 240z? Mine is cracked and I'm looking for an uncracked one. I'll buy that off you if it will fit and is uncracked.

Those windscreen metal pieces are a prick to get out without bending or damaging I tried .

Save rubber bungs etc... They are useful. Not sure if the control arms are the same in a 2+2 as the 2 seater they could be usefull.

Keep the rear lights they are important for spares.

Only leave the shell of the car almost everything has a use or can be sold to someone.

[240 in OZ]

Gavin

Australian manual 240z's had the 3.9 rear end. License plate light should fit Id expect.

Joseph

[Nigel Mulvey]

I'm not sure about the ratio of the diff. I understand the 2+2's had R200's and that's about all I can tell you. My 240 is a manual so possibly is a 3.9 anyway.

Does the diff play any part in keeping the rear end upright, ie if I take it off can I still roll the shell around? I didn't get that far on the project car.

[Gav240z]

Although I'm not 100% i'm fairly sure you can remove the diff without it effecting rollability of the shell. Actually make that 99% as I've never really had to do it but I'm pretty sure the control arms bolt up to the mustache bar which is secured to the shell. The diff should pop right out and cause no problems. I would have done this with my deceased 2+2 but I could not remove the bolts it was mounted to back then. Now I know a few more tricks with firm bolts in the rear end of the car. IE: Using torque to turn them.

In case you don't know I use a PIPE which I slide over say a rachet to give extra torque for turning the bolt. I had to do this with a set of CV joints on my old corolla. Otherwise they were just on too tight.

Good luck and it might take more than a day to salvage stuff.

Just my 2c

[drunkenmaster]

You will need to take the rear wheels off the ground to remove the diff, as the transverse links attach to the chassis via the diff mounts. Once you remove these to access the diff, the wheels will be free to sway side to side.

I suppose then you can re fit the diff mounts minus the diff to re attach the transverse links, then lower the wheels back to the ground again.

I guess this should work, by the way, are transverse links and control arms different words for the same thing?