And yea I almost didnt believe it when I saw that zx diff for 500 on eBay I was thinking that's probably open diff longnose r200 because the legit longnose  is so rare I believe it was legit but would it even hold up to 300hp without being rebuilt?  Definitely gonna check out Whitehead like wheee! Mentioned

I would love to use the zx diff or whatever I can do to still use the longnose case so I don't need a new drive shaft .. again lol just dropped 500 to get this one made, all new drive shaft, not a mix of stock and new parts! Definitely gonna want better Axel's tho!

 

This option seems like a good one.  A reputable manufacturer.  It's a carrier swap so a little more involved than a bolt-in Whitehead diff.  It's new, not used, although Nissan diffs seem to last many many miles with no issues.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127169-mfactory-r200-helical-lsd/

Anybody noticing how you can't just paste a link anymore?  You have to use the little link function at the top.  Weird.  Sometimes a paste works sometimes it doesn't.

Edited February 12, 20196 yr by Zed Head

The 1988 300ZX turbo diff was an R200 3.70 CLSD unit. Hard to find but great for up to 400 hp before you needed to rebuild the half-clutch pack to a full clutch pack.

Add the RT style diff mount and she is good to go.

The factory half shafts will support the same amount of power no problem. But yes, CV’s are in the future!

 

 

 

Awesome thanks guys! This is helping a lot!  And grannyknot,  here are some  pics of the mounts, pretty ghetto but got the job done, and iv always been intrigued by the use of the hockypucks, they actually feel great too! One stock mount on  passenger side of engine, mount to engine

Edited February 12, 20196 yr by 1jzs30
Typo

Not to be negative, but what stops the engine from moving sideways?  The bolts will have a large lever acting on them and there are no bolsters to keep it in place.  If you crank the bolt down on the puck then you'll have a solid metal path from engine to body.  You might find that you can get some movement just by hand if you grab the top of the engine and shake.

If you examine the stock mounts, from front to back, you'll see that they all have a break in the metal path, and they all have a back stop of metal in case things move.  Everything is floating on rubber.  Something to consider.  The transmission mount is considered the third engine mount by Nissan.

1 hour ago, 1jzs30 said:

And grannyknot,  here are some  pics of the mounts, pretty ghetto but got the job done, and iv always been intrigued by the use of the hockypucks, they actually feel great too! One stock mount on  passenger side of engine, mount to engine

Thanks for the pics, simple is good.  Many years ago I put a Ford 302 V8 into a Triumph TR6 and just used hockey pucks between the engine and frame, noisy, lots of vibration but it was great fun.

Nice! That's a pretty cool sounding swap!  Yeah I honestly haven't noticed any vibration  or weird noises from my motormount setup, then again I have only granny driven the car around for maybe 30-50 miles total since it's been running, due to the lack of exhaust and only running on a basemap right now not really tuned at all gets lean when I try to accelerate much or build any boost just needs a good tune on the Dyno, but also the straight 6 I hear are very balanced engines compared to V8 or v6 that probably helps a lot too

Edited February 13, 20196 yr by 1jzs30
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Thank you Zed head another thing I didn't consider too much! I wasnt able to move the engine side to side without lifting it with the crane first, and not at all after tightening them down but as far as the engine moving it's self under load while driving, I will definitely have to keep an eye on that !! Thank you for the thought! Although the only things I did not do myself on this whole build is design and Fab the motor and tranny mounts (I did do the square plates and hockypucks as I dropped the engine in) I had a friend shorten the water pump pipe and Grove it in a lathe for an oring for me. (Was made out of a 2jz water pump pipe that is 1/2 inch too long for a 1jz) and he unlocked, programed, and calibrated the ECU for first start up.

Edited February 13, 20196 yr by 1jzs30
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Got the Ron Tyler diff mount in the mail yesterday and put it in! Haven't driven the car yet tho. Next I want a new rear cross bar and switch the rubber isolater to an actual top mount