hello,

 

so ive been having some issues with my 1978 280z .. mainly how it would rough idle and die when i apply gas .. cleaned the water temp sensor and that went away.. so every once in a while the car would just die on my while driving.. found out the two wires coming off the distributor was getting chewed up by the ac compressor pulley.. so i ended up replacing that and for 1 week i didnt have any problem until this morning..

 

(so after cleaning the water temp sensor and replacing the fuel filter, ignition coil, distributor, sparkplugs, cap and rotor and sparkplug wires. i didnt have any problem since february 7th.)

 

this morning drove to the gym about 20minutes of driving then after my workout on my way to work while at 3rd gear cruising the car just died .. and while applying gas the car seems to be choking.. no sputtering or backfire.. pulled over and turned off the car .. started right away and i drove off no problem.. got to work and parked.. 

 

i didnt do anything to the car only thing was a full tank of 91 octane gas 2/17.. 

also i just wanted to add it has been raining on and off here and there..

Edited February 18, 20196 yr by cclxxxz

 Possibly water in the fuel? Yeah, I'm bunkhouse at HybridZ.

10 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Possibly water in the fuel? Yeah, I'm bunkhouse at HybridZ.

filler cap? where could it be leakin into? thanks brother!

Failing Ignition module can spontaneously cause loss of ignition (look at tach to see if it drops instantly when coasting). Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

Failing capacitors (condensers) can short out their connected ends when failing. Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

49 minutes ago, cclxxxz said:

filler cap? where could it be leakin into? thanks brother!

 Water in the bottom of an underground tank can get stirred up while the tank is being filled. If you're fueling your car at the same time, a small amount of water can get pumped into your tank along with the fuel. I'd try a bottle of Heet and see if the problem returns.

 Another possibility is a rust hole in the top of your tank. A bit far fetched but I've seen it in the past.

 240260280 has some good ideas too. I'm going with fuel because it was the last thing you did before the problem started.

35 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Failing Ignition module can spontaneously cause loss of ignition (look at tach to see if it drops instantly when coasting). Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

Failing capacitors (condensers) can short out their connected ends when failing. Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

thank you!

 

my car is a 1978 280z last time i check i didnt think it came with an ignition module? is it also referred to as the “match box” besides the distributor? if so mine doesnt have one..

also my coil doesnt have a capacitor (condensers) usually located underneath the coil correct?

are there any other external capacitor (condensers) or ignition module located somewhere?

 

thanks

Edited February 18, 20196 yr by cclxxxz

24 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Water in the bottom of an underground tank can get stirred up while the tank is being filled. If you're fueling your car at the same time, a small amount of water can get pumped into your tank along with the fuel. I'd try a bottle of Heet and see if the problem returns.

 Another possibility is a rust hole in the top of your tank. A bit far fetched but I've seen it in the past.

 240260280 has some good ideas too. I'm going with fuel because it was the last thing you did before the problem started.

 

ill try a bottle of heet and see.. thanks!

1 hour ago, 240260280 said:

Failing Ignition module can spontaneously cause loss of ignition (look at tach to see if it drops instantly when coasting). Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

Failing capacitors (condensers) can short out their connected ends when failing. Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

 

theres a small condenser by the ignition coil with a single wire .. but its not connected anywhere else? should it be connected to the + of the ignition coil?

Have you removed the distributor cap and looked for anything loose maybe? Rotor button is on good and tight? Just spitballing...

Edited February 18, 20196 yr by siteunseen

26 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

Have you removed the distributor cap and looked for anything loose maybe? Rotor button is on good and tight? Just spitballing...

thank you siteunseen!

 

yes i made sure .. cap and rotor are both brand new.. distributor as well..

4 hours ago, cclxxxz said:

while at 3rd gear cruising the car just died .. and while applying gas the car seems to be choking.. no sputtering or backfire.. pulled over and turned off the car .. started right away and i drove off no problem.. got to work and parked.. 

 

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Failing Ignition module can spontaneously cause loss of ignition (look at tach to see if it drops instantly when coasting). Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

Failing capacitors (condensers) can short out their connected ends when failing. Usually they start working again after the circuit cools down.

Your description isn't quite right.  You said you were cruising along and the engine died then you applied gas.  The details will give a better answer.

Your symptoms look a lot like mine when my ignition module died.  I could reproduce the problem by revving over 3000 PRM.  Watch the tachometer needle.  The module location is shown in the Engine Electrician chapter.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

p.s. I finally figured out what the + next to Quote is for.  Symbology is aggravating.  Guess...

11 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

 

Your description isn't quite right.  You said you were cruising along and the engine died then you applied gas.  The details will give a better answer.

Your symptoms look a lot like mine when my ignition module died.  I could reproduce the problem by revving over 3000 PRM.  Watch the tachometer needle.  The module location is shown in the Engine Electrician chapter.

https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

p.s. I finally figured out what the + next to Quote is for.  Symbology is aggravating.  Guess...

 

i was cruising with my foot on the gas pedal and the car died on me..and with my foot on the pedal it wouldnt rev anymore which tells me that the car is complete dead ... thats what i was trying to say.. 

 

my tachometer is frozen at 2,500rpm it might be a mechanical issue although i havent been able to troubleshoot this issue..

 

Zed,

when you say “Ignition Module” are you referring to the “Transistor ignition unit” (EE-25 , Fig. EE-57)

?

Thank you!