32 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

p.s. I finally figured out what the + next to Quote is for.  Symbology is aggravating.  Guess...

 

33 minutes ago, cclxxxz said:

thank you siteunseen!

Get off my lawn you dang kids! 

Yes, that is it.

Without a tachometer you have a dilemma.  You can either guess at solutions or rig up a way to see if you're losing spark.

You could wire in a GM HEI module for a $25 test method.  Or wire in an LED on the coil wire.  Hang it out of the hood, if it stops flashing you've lost spark.

You might see if you can make it happen at rest.  Just rev the engine up to 4000 RPM in the driveway and see if it dies.  If you can find a way to reproduce it with the hood open there are some tricks you can try.

4 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Yes, that is it.

Without a tachometer you have a dilemma.  You can either guess at solutions or rig up a way to see if you're losing spark.

You could wire in a GM HEI module for a $25 test method.  Or wire in an LED on the coil wire.  Hang it out of the hood, if it stops flashing you've lost spark.

You might see if you can make it happen at rest.  Just rev the engine up to 4000 RPM in the driveway and see if it dies.  If you can find a way to reproduce it with the hood open there are some tricks you can try.

i saw a thread about the whole GM HEI Module..

ill also try to source another tachometer and replace my frozen tach..

i just want to add .. for almost a week i didnt have this issue until today.. if it was the ignition module wouldnt it be consistent everytime the car or the module heats up?

 

@cclxxxz How many miles did you drive after the fill-up and the engine dying?

It's usually caused by heat.  Higher RPM flows more current through certain parts of the module.  Maybe you just haven't been revving it up over the last week.

Now that you have some ideas maybe one of them will fit the symptoms better.

That's a good thread you picked out.  FastWoman gives good advice.

2 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

It's usually caused by heat.  Higher RPM flows more current through certain parts of the module.  Maybe you just haven't been revving it up over the last week.

Now that you have some ideas maybe one of them will fit the symptoms better.

That's a good thread you picked out.  FastWoman gives good advice.

will do! thank you always Zed!

28 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

@cclxxxz How many miles did you drive after the fill-up and the engine dying?

so after one week of not having any issue .. (i guess a full tank lasted me one week) i had to get gas yesterday at costco.. and it was raining a little bit..

 

after getting a full tank yesterday .. from costco to home, home to gym, and from gym to work .. it was about 20 miles of driving until the car died.. 

 Thanks. That would seem to rule out water in the gas. I doubt that one could go twenty miles before the contaminated fuel made it to the engine. My previous experience has been less than ten miles.

14 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Thanks. That would seem to rule out water in the gas. I doubt that one could go twenty miles before the contaminated fuel made it to the engine. My previous experience has been less than ten miles.

it is about 8 miles from home to the gym.. and it rained last night ...

This had happened to me in two different vehicles.
-1975 MGB
-1982 Toyota MR2
Problem clogged fuel filter due it excessive debris in fuel tank (rust). I’d let the car sit a few minutes and it would start right back up. I would investigate your fuel system. A lot of guys will put a cheap $3 Fram paper fuel filter between the tank and pump. It’s clear so you’ll get a good idea what the fuel looks like exiting the tank. If you just put a new filter on in the engine compartment you’ll just reclog it if you’re have excessive debris in your tank. So put this cheap filter on and it will confirm or eliminate your fuel tank as the culprit.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

This had happened to me in two different vehicles.
-1975 MGB
-1982 Toyota MR2
Problem clogged fuel filter due it excessive debris in fuel tank (rust). I’d let the car sit a few minutes and it would start right back up. I would investigate your fuel system. A lot of guys will put a cheap $3 Fram paper fuel filter between the tank and pump. It’s clear so you’ll get a good idea what the fuel looks like exiting the tank. If you just put a new filter on in the engine compartment you’ll just reclog it if you’re have excessive debris in your tank. So put this cheap filter on and it will confirm or eliminate your fuel tank as the culprit.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

hello Av8ferg,

 

thank you for taking the time guving me advice.. i have drained the fuel twice now off the tank and it was clean .. i did replace the fuel filter .. and i opened up the old filter and it was also clean..

is that a factory filter? between the tank and the pump? 

 

i noticed a small filter above the fuel pump.. it might be on the return line.. is that also a filter? 

 

i know the dampner is different.. 

 

but theres 3 items underneath around the tank.. 1. fuel pump, 2. a black filter looking might be on the return line and 3. the dampner...

 

thanks!

which ione is this filter? it doesnt look oem..

also this is the condenser correct? where is it supposed to be connected to?

Edited February 19, 20196 yr by cclxxxz