280z dies randomly while driving..

[240260280]

I think that is not correct condenser. Usually only one lead and the body is grounded.

Edited February 19, 2019 by 240260280

[cclxxxz]

38 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

I think that is not correct condenser. Usually only one lead and the body if grounded.

 

so it comes off the main harness and the other end is not connected to anything? i was looking at the fsm and it should connect to the positive terminal of the ignition coil?

[240260280]

It is connected to +coil in your photo.  It is the other end that is not connected which is wrong. It should connect to ground.  Your car seems to have a dual lead condenser.

 

FYI Usually the Nissan condensers have just one single lead and the body is ground (see lower photo for typical 280z condenser).

 

 

 

Edited February 19, 2019 by 240260280

[cclxxxz]

12 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

It is connected to +coil in your photo.  It is the other end that is not connected which is wrong. It should connect to ground.  Your car seems to have a dual lead condenser.

 

FYI Usually the Nissan condensers have just one single lead and the body is ground (see lower photo for typical 280z condenser).

 

 

 

my 280z didnt come with a ballast resistor.. and its running the flamethrower 2 ignition coil..

 

last night 2/18 .. the car ran fine and got me home.. on the way home i put a bottle of HEET yellow bottle.. parked.. and drove fine again this morning 2/19 to the gym..

 

from the gym to my work the car died again at the same spot yesterday.. i was at a stop light and as soon as it turned green i went to first gear then second gear then the car died.. casually revving the engine .. since my tach is frozen im guessing i wasnt near close to 3k rpm .. 

 

pulled over to the side.. started the car again and it started just fine and i just got to work .. 

 

help pls..

[Av8ferg]

 
hello Av8ferg,
 
thank you for taking the time guving me advice.. i have drained the fuel twice now off the tank and it was clean .. i did replace the fuel filter .. and i opened up the old filter and it was also clean..
is that a factory filter? between the tank and the pump? 
 
i noticed a small filter above the fuel pump.. it might be on the return line.. is that also a filter? 
 
i know the dampner is different.. 
 
but theres 3 items underneath around the tank.. 1. fuel pump, 2. a black filter looking might be on the return line and 3. the dampner...
 
thanks!

I’ve attached some pics to help you out. Having a filter on the return line make zero sense. The pervious owner may not have understood which line was which.
A pre-filter is not a factory thing. People starting do it as these cars aged and tanks got old. It makes sense to have a filter before the pump to protect it from clogging as it’s an expensive pump. This cheap fram plastic filter won’t hurt fuel flow as they have a very low resistance to flow. The great part is you can now visually inspect what coming out of your tank and change this in 5 mins for $3.





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[cclxxxz]

1 minute ago, Av8ferg said:

 

I’ve attached some pics to help you out. Having a filter on the return line make zero sense. The pervious owner may not have understood which line was which.
A pre-filter is not a factory thing. People starting do it as these cars aged and tanks got old. It makes sense to have a filter before the pump to protect it from clogging as it’s an expensive pump. This cheap fram plastic filter won’t hurt fuel flow as they have a very low resistance to flow. The great part is you can now visually inspect what coming out of your tank and change this in 5 mins for $3.





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thank you for this image i will add a filter when i get around it this weekend.. its strange because it seems like its a factory location because of the mounting points .. its just the filter itself doesnt look oem..

[cclxxxz]

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

It is connected to +coil in your photo.  It is the other end that is not connected which is wrong. It should connect to ground.  Your car seems to have a dual lead condenser.

 

FYI Usually the Nissan condensers have just one single lead and the body is ground (see lower photo for typical 280z condenser).

 

 

 

 

i found this on the web.. it seems like we have the same setup and his isnt connected to anything also..

[siteunseen]

33 minutes ago, cclxxxz said:

 

i found this on the web.. it seems like we have the same setup and his isnt connected to anything also..

I remember that car.  It's a 260 with a 280ZX motor, IIRC.

[Av8ferg]

This guy walks you through all the ignition system testing on a 280z and explains some interesting facts about the 280z coil. It might help you out.

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[cclxxxz]

2 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

This guy walks you through all the ignition system testing on a 280z and explains some interesting facts about the 280z coil. It might help you out.
 

 

 

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will watch it in a bit thank you!

[cclxxxz]

so i disconnected the one lead to the condenser (for radio) and nothing happens this is at idle and normal running temp.. 

 

but i did find that my negative terminal to my battery is broken..

Edited February 19, 2019 by cclxxxz

[Zed Head]

That's four sketchy electrical connections.  The distributor wires, the condenser, the fusible link, and this.  The distributor wires can actually put a big voltage spike.  The alternator can get spiked, apparently, if the battery gets disconnected.  Bad things happen with bad electrical connections.  Might be time for a general search and destroy mission.