280z dies randomly while driving..

[cclxxxz]

3 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That's four sketchy electrical connections.  The distributor wires, the condenser, the fusible link, and this.  The distributor wires can actually put a big voltage spike.  The alternator can get spiked, apparently, if the battery gets disconnected.  Bad things happen with bad electrical connections.  Might be time for a general search and destroy mission.

going to replace the terminal for sure.. my distributor wires are now good .. 

 

the condenser i need to resolve and figure out why i have an extra lead.. but you did mention its for the radio and nothing happens when i disconnect the other lead off the condenser.. 

the fusible link connextion im confused to see why the previous owner would cut them.. anyways it is still using the correct fusible link ..

ill fix the battery terminal connection..and see what happens..

also i noticed the connector behind the ignition switch was loose.. 

“general search and destroy mission” what do you mean exactly ? lol

[cclxxxz]

Hello,

I was able to fix the battery terminal and the condenser.. drove the car to try and mimic the driving style and no problem.. even was revving as hard as i can and car running fine

[240260280]

Good work!  I am betting on that battery terminal.

 

When you have time disconnect, inspect, and clean every electrical connection in your engine bay, in the passenger footwell, on your ECU, at the fuse panel (including fuse holder tabs), and ignition box.

[gwri8]

What he said....   head off any future electrical problems and it will get you more familiar with your car. 

[cclxxxz]

41 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Good work!  I am betting on that battery terminal.

 

When you have time disconnect, inspect, and clean every electrical connection in your engine bay, in the passenger footwell, on your ECU, at the fuse panel (including fuse holder tabs), and ignition box.

i did all of the grounds and connections inside the engine bay.. 

 

need to go over the passenger footwell, fuseblock , ignitioj box inside the engine bay as well and the ecu..

i am hoping so .. 

thanjs !

[cclxxxz]

so i found this valve.. from a 2007 350z.. 

Edited February 20, 2019 by cclxxxz

[Zed Head]

42 minutes ago, cclxxxz said:

so i found this valve.. from a 2007 350z.. 

What does it do?

[cclxxxz]

7 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

What does it do?

its a check valve .. also in the return line .. for vapor..

[cclxxxz]

Hello,

 

a little update today .. 2/21 .. same routine .. but this time i didnt have any issue.. the car didnt die on me.. so im hoping that it was indeed electrical and i have fixed the issue.. thank you all for the help! now i can move on to the next problem ..

[cclxxxz]

i guess the same problem is back..

 

so the car has a rough idle and dies when i apply gas...

 

when i disconnect the water temp sensor the car idles better and can stay on .. and i am able to rev the engine but it sputters a bit..

 

i check for continuity on the ecu plug for thermotime switch, water temp sensor.. cold start valve, air regulator, afm, tps (only at full throttle i get a reading)... 

 

i dont know where to begin again..

 

i did fix my negative battery terminal .. i replaced the water temp sensor.. new ignition parts.. wires, plugs dizzy and coil..

[Zed Head]

Begin here -

 

[Av8ferg]

Here’s an option. Maybe try an alternate ECU. I own 2 extra ECU’s and have tested them. I found one on EBay for $25 and another from a yard for $50. It’s also good to just have spares of some items. As these car age some parts will become harder and harder to find. Just an idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk