280z dies randomly while driving..

[Captain Obvious]

Glad to help.

No, the TVS should be either "infinite" or "zero", so checking that on the 200 Ohm scale is the appropriate setting.

Your HF meter probably reads between one and two Ohms on the 200 Ohm scale with the leads shorted together (mine reads 1.3 Ohms or so). So if you're checking the TVS (TPS), you should see pretty much that same reading when the switch is closed.

WOT side closed at WOT.
Idle side closed at idle.

If the idle side isn't closing, it's probably either an adjustment issue, or someone has been in there messing with it.

[cclxxxz]

1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said:

Glad to help.

No, the TVS should be either "infinite" or "zero", so checking that on the 200 Ohm scale is the appropriate setting.

Your HF meter probably reads between one and two Ohms on the 200 Ohm scale with the leads shorted together (mine reads 1.3 Ohms or so). So if you're checking the TVS (TPS), you should see pretty much that same reading when the switch is closed.

WOT side closed at WOT.
Idle side closed at idle.

If the idle side isn't closing, it's probably either an adjustment issue, or someone has been in there messing with it.

Cap,

yes my HF meter reads 0.7-13 ohms when leads are shorted together.. but when i test the tvs idle switch it doesnt display anything at all or no change in the meter display window.. 

 

btw heres a video of the car stalling this morning again..

 

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by cclxxxz

[Captain Obvious]

So yes... It sounds like your TVS isn't closing properly. That won't cause your car to die while driving though.

Hard to make out much from that video. The audio is so bad that I can't tell what's going on. I can't make out if you are cranking the engine, or if it starts or not. I've got no video experience at all, but it would help (me at least) if I could hear the sounds of the engine.

[cclxxxz]

45 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

So yes... It sounds like your TVS isn't closing properly. That won't cause your car to die while driving though.

Hard to make out much from that video. The audio is so bad that I can't tell what's going on. I can't make out if you are cranking the engine, or if it starts or not. I've got no video experience at all, but it would help (me at least) if I could hear the sounds of the engine.

Cap,

Thanks will replace that for sure..

just uploaded the video hopefully with a better audio..

 

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by cclxxxz

[Dave WM]

I mentioned the possible swap of the bullet connectors for the thermotime and temp sensor, this may have been brought up before. You also should get a better DMM, get one with auto setting on the ohms, a lot easier to work with. Don't go pulling the ignition switch yet, you need to get to the bottom of the ohm readings 1st.

[240260280]

ignore

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by 240260280

[Dave WM]

Get a ohm reading of the temp sensor AT THE ECU if you have not done that already. This will check both the sensor and the wire hookup. the FSM will tell you which pins to check. This one should track with the water temp per the scale provided in the FSM. This check requires disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU to get to the pins.

[cclxxxz]

7 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

Get a ohm reading of the temp sensor AT THE ECU if you have not done that already. This will check both the sensor and the wire hookup. the FSM will tell you which pins to check. This one should track with the water temp per the scale provided in the FSM. This check requires disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU to get to the pins.

ive done it before but was just going through and as far as i remember they were all good besides the TVS at idle switch.. but i will recheck the ecu pins as well today.. and document the readings.. 

 

25 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

I mentioned the possible swap of the bullet connectors for the thermotime and temp sensor, this may have been brought up before. You also should get a better DMM, get one with auto setting on the ohms, a lot easier to work with. Don't go pulling the ignition switch yet, you need to get to the bottom of the ohm readings 1st.

do you mean by accident in the future? or are you suggesting to actually replace them with better bullet connectors? because i am thinking of doing that just to rule that out of the equation..

 

when i tested the water temp sensor i know it was the water temp sensor it is the smaller of the two compare to the thermotime switch.. the test was done in car and before the car was started and the car has been sitting down and i was getting a reading of 1.1 ohms but i couldnt hold it properly to get a good contact..  i followed these instructions.. it was at midnight .. probably 50 degrees outside not sure whats the engine temp though..

 

 

i reuploaded the video hopefully with a better sound..

 

 

thanks!

[240260280]

I watched the video.  Seems like you have spark but a very weak mixture.  Have a look below the EGR valve and see if the manifold rotted through causing the exhaust to dilute the charge in the manifold.

It is a very elusive problem.

[cclxxxz]

will inspect the pipe under the egr and the manifold in a little bit and update with pictures.. i would try to take it apart sometime when i get the chance to inspect if its clogged.. thanks always appreciate the time and advices!

[Dave WM]

1.1 ohms or 1.1K ohms?

 

1.1ohms or 1100 ohms.

If its 1.1k or 1100ohms then all is ok with that system, both the sensor and most likely the hookup, you can check that off as a non issue.

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

so the Fuel pressure is good, the temp sensor is good, and the TPS is suspect, and the air temp sensor is suspect. Neither of those would account for a sudden loss of power, but would account for a chronic mixture issue (air temp) or a idle issue that was constant.

Since intermittent shut down is the real issue, I would focus on fuel or spark. Install a perm fuel pressure gauge (extreme caution here, you don't want to have a gas leak and engine fire) and the spark monitor. You are going to have to isolate the issue before any more testing. The ign switch is a extreme long shot since it typically would be a start issue and not a run issue. With the spark and fuel pressure monitored you would have to catch it next time it happens and see which of the problems it is.

and if all else fails (spark is good and fuel pressure is good) I think the FSM just points to a bad ECU, try giving it a smack (don't know if ZX has them in the same place as the Z) with your hand on the case and see if it has an effect.

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by Dave WM