Going ballistic...

[Dan Hansen]

18 hours ago, LeonV said:

Did it ever run with the 280Z tach installed? How did you wire it in? The coil + BW wire runs through the tachometer and if you didn't bridge that when installing the 280Z tach, you will not have power to the coil.

I took the orig. 240 Tach out, and replaced it with a 280, and wired it due to instructions, but you mention the "bridge" I´m suddenly not sure if I did it correct?

How do you bridge it?

 

[Dan Hansen]

16 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I wonder if the "stock" distributor was stock to a 240Z.

The good news is that it used to run.  

It's almost midnight in Copenhagen.  11:43 pm.

 

Yes, it ran before I got the 1-2-3 on...

[Dan Hansen]

18 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The order in which you did all of these things might be a clue.  Your first sentence implies that the 1-2-3 system produced some spark, but the engine would not start and run.  Is that correct?

It's not clear after that if you immediately reinstalled the points distributor or if you replaced all of those parts then installed the points distributor.  Kind of looks like you might have just got some wires wrong when you reinstalled the points distributor. 

Points systems are very easy to check since you can open and close the points by hand.  With a meter you can check that the circuit is being made and being broken, and that there is a circuit to ground.  Much less mystery than electronic systems.

Yes, it produced some spark and I first thought it where a missing advance curve that I did not program before I crank it.. Usually It´s not a major problem, and I could find the right program when it ran...?

But as described, the spark and willingness to run became worse during the trials?

[Zed Head]

4 hours ago, Dan Hansen said:

I put a new condensator on the orig. distributor...

Before the problem or after?

A volt/ohm meter would tell you a lot.  Measure voltage at the points.  Confirm that they have a ground path.  Close them, open them.

[Dan Hansen]

I need to know where and how to "bridge" the B/W wire to/from coil?

 

[SteveJ]

7 minutes ago, Dan Hansen said:

I need to know where and how to "bridge" the B/W wire to/from coil?

 

First things first. Have you verified whether or not you have voltage at the coil as I described for you to test?

[Dan Hansen]

On 20. feb. 2019 at 4:42 PM, SteveJ said:

First things first. Have you verified whether or not you have voltage at the coil as I described for you to test?

I do have voltage to the coil 12.4V due to described test, also got about 9V when cranking the engine.

This afternoon I replaced the points, and the car gave some sign of life, but did not start?

Good news, it seems that the electronic tach from a 280 are working, the needle reacts when I crank the engine...

I will continue to seek after that needle...

[SteveJ]

The fact that you have voltage at the coil eliminates the tachometer swap as a problem. 

Did the voltage fluctuate when cranking the engine. If it stayed at 9VDC, then you're still missing the path to ground for the spark to happen. Either the points are not closing, or the circuit from the negative of the coil to ground (that goes through the points) is compromised.

[Dan Hansen]

8 hours ago, SteveJ said:

The fact that you have voltage at the coil eliminates the tachometer swap as a problem. 

Did the voltage fluctuate when cranking the engine. If it stayed at 9VDC, then you're still missing the path to ground for the spark to happen. Either the points are not closing, or the circuit from the negative of the coil to ground (that goes through the points) is compromised.

Started all over once again, and re-checked every connection, replaced the points and set the gap 0.20, replaced the brand new condensator with another, cranked the engine... nothing?

Checked the small wire inside the point, replaced it, cranked the engine... and voila, it started!

Now, I have to figure out, how to hook up the electronic 1-2-3 distributor..

Thank you guys, for all your help...

[SteveJ]

3 hours ago, Dan Hansen said:

Started all over once again, and re-checked every connection, replaced the points and set the gap 0.20, replaced the brand new condensator with another, cranked the engine... nothing?

Checked the small wire inside the point, replaced it, cranked the engine... and voila, it started!

Now, I have to figure out, how to hook up the electronic 1-2-3 distributor..

Thank you guys, for all your help...

Excellent. When diagnosing an electrical issue, you can start at the battery positive and work your way to ground, start at the ground and work your way to battery positive,  or start in the middle and work in one direction or another. 

Since we know the car runs, make sure you set the engine to top dead center before swapping the distributor. Take a photo of the rotor so you are sure how it is oriented.  Make sure you have a good ground for the new distributor, too.