Repair distributor vacuum advance pot?

[Zed Head]

I must have been thinking of the 240Z cans.  I know I was keeping my eyes open for spares since they're hard to find.

[rcb280z]

Very hard to find. 

This one is what I call a good universal one for the L motors.

 

[rcb280z]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Since you're working on yours, check the breaker plate for rotation

I would also make sure you test this as per Zed Head.

[chaseincats]

So I just popped the cap off the dizzy, here in here am i supposed to wiggle my finger to test movement?

[Zed Head]

If you remove the big screw you should be able to carefully wiggle the canister free and very carefully pull it out slightly.  As you move it the plate with all of the screws in it should rotate.  Be very careful, if it doesn't move easily don't force it.  The bearings are in a plastic cage that often breaks.

OR.  You can twist the pate with all of the screws in it in the direction of the vacuum canister.  The rod should goin to the canister as the plate moves.

OR.  You can remove the tiny screw that holds the end of the rod on to the plate, then the big screw that holds the canister, and just remove the whole canister.  Then twist the plate by hand.

OR. You can do the above, then remove the whole distributor and remove the breaker plate, and look through the sides for rust.  Loosen the big screw first, it's usually very tight.  Sometimes so tight it takes drastic measures.

BUT.  There's a lot of rust visible there.  I'd be surprised if your bearings aren't already rusty.  They might be salvageable.  You probably haven't had vacuum advance for a while.  If I had that in front of me, I'd loosen the big screw while it's mounted then take the distributor out and go through it.  Take the breaker plate out, check the mechanical advance, and the breaker plate bearings.  Disassembly is shown in the FSM.

[rcb280z]

18 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I'd be surprised if your bearings aren't already rusty.

Yeah there is a lot of rust in there. If it were me I would take it apart and clean it up, lube it, etc. Too much rust IMO. 

[chaseincats]

Thanks for all the information guys!

Won't taking the distributor apart really mess with the timing of the engine/create big problems if I do/reinstall something wrong?

[chaseincats]

If I am unable to get the advance to work, should the timing at something above 10 degrees (its sitting at 10 now)?

[rcb280z]

Factory setting is 10 degrees BTDC. At idle.

You need to check your vacuum source, make sure you have good vacuum for the vacuum advance to work.

Also, have you checked all the things that were recommended to you? Vacuum advance plate, etc.

I find it hard to believe you're not getting any advance. So check the things again that were recommended to you.

How did you go about checking advance?  Just curious.

If you have a vacuum pump, apply a small amount of vac to check the movement of the vacuum plate with the new vac can in place.

Edited March 4, 2019 by rcb280z

[chaseincats]

43 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

Factory setting is 10 degrees BTDC. 

You need to check your vacuum source, make sure you have good vacuum for the vacuum advance to work.

Also, have you checked all the things that were recommended to you? Vacuum advance plate, etc.

I find it hard to believe you're not getting any advance. So check the things again that were recommended to you.

How did you go about checking advance?  

I popped the distributor cap off and tried to pull and push things but nothing moved so we are thinking those pieces are rusted shut.  Also, my vacuum pod diaphragm has a hole in it which is why even if my pieces were not frozen shut, I wouldn't be receiving advance.

[rcb280z]

Okay, I jumped the gun and assumed you installed the "new" one, sorry.

Carry on.

[chaseincats]

On 2/21/2019 at 4:48 PM, rcb280z said:

Chasincats, I'd go for it. They only have one left.

And my advance numbers are the same as it was with the 77 vac can and dizzy. Around 35 deg. Which is whats it been for a very long time.

@rcb280z Finally gave up on trying to fix this thing and am just going to go with a permanent advance.  Do you mean that at idle (800) you set your distributor ignition timing to 35 degrees instead of 10?  That seems like quite a bit, no?  After doing that did you have a pretty rough idle?