11 minutes ago, Patcon said:

What type of brake rotors are on the car? I have found that drilled or sometimes even slotted rotors can make sounds like this at low speeds.

OEM style Raybestos brand rotors with metallic pads. 

11 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

Does the clicking frequency increase with vehicle speed? Does the noise go away if you turn going 10-15 MPH or does the noise change when you tap the brakes? (Thanks Charles)

The noise goes away after approximately 10 MPH(15MPH at the most).  it doesn't go away when I turn, and seems to be concurrent with wheel speed.  If i brake it goes away, or at the very least, gets quieter.  

Edit: I'll have to drive it again to verify for sure that the noise does not go away turning beyond 15MPH.  Thinking back, I cannot be 100% sure that when I experience the noise, that I have turned the car at or beyond 15MPH.  I just know that if i turn into my driveway from my street and it's making the noise, I will still be making the noise.  But in reality, that's probably about 2-5 MPH if even that.  So I'll test again and report back. 

Edited April 5, 20195 yr by Reptoid Overlords

The noise is likely coming from the worn u joints on the shafts, I don't think you have replaced them.  You can change them yourself for around $20 (Neapco) each or any driveline shop Seattle can do it at a reasonable price if you take them just the shafts.  (the permanently lubed ones are stronger than the greaseable  type.   Drivelines NW is a good choice for parts or the work in your area.

Edited April 5, 20195 yr by S30Driver
spelling

17 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

The noise is likely coming from the worn u joints on the shafts, I don't think you have replaced them.  You can change them yourself for around $20 (Neapco) each or any driveline shop Seattle can do it at a reasonable price if you take them just the shafts.  (the permanently lubed ones are stronger than the greaseable  type.   Drivelines NW is a good choice for parts or the work in your area.

I've gotten Spicer U-joints from Drivelines NW in the past.  Thanks for the input.  Not really having dealt with halfshaft rear ends, i wasn't sure what to look for as far as signs of failure.  I've only experienced the typical clicking from FWD cars when turning.  

I noticed the other day when I removed the old differential that if you spin one side, the other side spins a lot slower than the side you are spinning by hand. Sometimes, it doesn't even spin at all. The spare differential spins the same speed and doesn't stop until you stop spinning it. Also it seems a bit "tighter" than the old one. I haven't got my halfshafts back from the shop yet, but I'm guessing my old differential has some problems. Also, the other side spline came out when I removed the halfshaft. So now both sides have no circlips.

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I got the halfshafts back from NW driveline.  They did great work.  Even painted them.  I've put everything back together and went on a test run with some mixed city/freeway driving.  Don't hear any clicks or any other abnormal noises.  The diff whined a bit at first but shut up after a bit of driving.  I guess I can move on to other things now.  Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction. 

Good job.   A great place for testing drive line noise, u joints, is a underground or enclosed public parking garage.  The enclosed space and tight turns up & down the ramps amplify the noise, make it easier to tell left side or right etc.

I pulled the cover of the back of the original differential. I don't see any circlips, or evidence that they grenaded inside. Is it factory RTV in lieu of a gasket on the rear cover? It would make sense, I know Toyota used their FPIG and Honda had its Hondaseal or whatever.

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Any r180 or r200 I've ever opened has had a paper gasket just like the one they still sell.

Thanks.  It's possible then that someone had it apart at some point in it's life, and did not install circlips upon re-assembly, as there was no gasket, just RTV between the diff case and the rear cover. 

2 hours ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

Thanks.  It's possible then that someone had it apart at some point in it's life, and did not install circlips upon re-assembly, as there was no gasket, just RTV between the diff case and the rear cover. 

That's very possible considering how difficult those ring clips are to install.