280ZX aftermarket ignition?

[DC871F]

Is there an aftermarket electronic ignition that works well in stock 280ZX?

[black gold man]

HEI  https://www.google.com/search?q=HEI+280zx+datsun&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiYgd3vzNXgAhXBx4MKHawRB8YQ_AUICSgA&biw=1366&bih=608&dpr=1

 

[Zed Head]

4 hours ago, DC871F said:

Is there an aftermarket electronic ignition that works well in stock 280ZX?

The factory 280Zx distributor and electronic ignition module is pretty good.  What improvements are you looking for?

Black Gold's HEI suggestion is probably the cheapest, and biggest bang for the buck.

[DC871F]

21 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

The factory 280Zx distributor and electronic ignition module is pretty good.  What improvements are you looking for?

Black Gold's HEI suggestion is probably the cheapest, and biggest bang for the buck.

Well, I'm going back to a problem I was trying to diagnose last year.

Two different distributors (Rock Auto) three different modules, with varying results.

From no higher end performance, the original problem (stumbling on the upper band of the power range). Then complete R&R of the distributor and module with which resulted in worsening undriveable symptoms. Then I ordered another complete distributor with module and just changed the module that resulted in about 70% improvement.

Result, Stumbling idle when it warms up, and high end power loss. Intermediate power fine, highway driving fine, just not when you downshift lets say into fourth gear and stab the throttle, starts to hesitate towards higher end before you would shift to 5th. And I'm not winding it up towards the yellow arc or anything on the RPMs.

New cap, rotor, plugs, plug wires, coil, and injectors.

[Reptoid Overlords]

The fact that several distributors/modules caused varying results may very well be all the proof one needs to change the ignition system.  However, I had strange things happening at around 2K RPM and sporadic idle when i first got my '80ZX.  The most glaring issues were that the distributor timing was set to zero, there was a vacuum leak in the vacuum advance, and there was condensation buildup in the throttle position switch.  Also the valve lash was a bit tight on more than one exhaust tappet, and the ignition control module was malfunctioning as the engine was at normal operating temp.  Another issue i found was that the coolant temperature switch was coated with a sort of greenish/brown(I'm colorblind) goo that was probably preventing it from doing it's job.  All the electrical connectors were in need of cleaning, with the fuel injector connectors having to be entirely replaced due to cracking/buildup. I've used Caig Deoxit to clean connections at the recommendation of others on this forum to great effect.  I'm sure you know your car, just wanted to point out the other possibilities so that others who help can get a clear idea of the issue at hand. 

Edit: I also found my EGR valve to be stuck open, and the cat to be clogged up, so I deleted the entire EGR system. Edited February 25, 2019 by Reptoid Overlords

[DC871F]

4 hours ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

The fact that several distributors/modules caused varying results may very well be all the proof one needs to change the ignition system.  However, I had strange things happening at around 2K RPM and sporadic idle when i first got my '80ZX.  The most glaring issues were that the distributor timing was set to zero, there was a vacuum leak in the vacuum advance, and there was condensation buildup in the throttle position switch.  Also the valve lash was a bit tight on more than one exhaust tappet, and the ignition control module was malfunctioning as the engine was at normal operating temp.  Another issue i found was that the coolant temperature switch was coated with a sort of greenish/brown(I'm colorblind) goo that was probably preventing it from doing it's job.  All the electrical connectors were in need of cleaning, with the fuel injector connectors having to be entirely replaced due to cracking/buildup. I've used Caig Deoxit to clean connections at the recommendation of others on this forum to great effect.  I'm sure you know your car, just wanted to point out the other possibilities so that others who help can get a clear idea of the issue at hand. 

Edit: I also found my EGR valve to be stuck open, and the cat to be clogged up, so I deleted the entire EGR system.

I did extensive work on it while trouble shooting last year.

O2 sensor was bad, so change it, EGR, new injectors, rewired and installed new injector plugs, throttle valve sensor checked, cleaned water temp connection, all new vacuum hoses, you get the picture.

When I put the last module on, it really seemed to do the trick, but now when you accelerate right around when you think it should keep accelerating it just hits a brick wall and its held back.

Starting from dead stop through the gears it does fine, just when you start asking a little more out of it is the issue.

I thought the fact that distributors and modules were giving me different results, that I would just chuck it. One module out of three would even allow the engine to accelerate past 1500RPM while just revving the throttle linkage in the shop. Whats up with that?

Maybe these rebuilt components are reaching their life span.

[Zed Head]

The GM HEI modules are pretty robust once set up right, and cheap.  $25.  You can use the red and green wires from inside the ZX distributors to drive them.  Or get a 280Z distributor and use that.

Your tachometer needle is the best clue to what's happening with spark.  If it starts jittering or dropping and rising, or doesn't match engine best-guess engine RPM that's a clue.  If it rises smoothly and follows RPM then spark is probably not your issue.

[DC871F]

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

The GM HEI modules are pretty robust once set up right, and cheap.  $25.  You can use the red and green wires from inside the ZX distributors to drive them.  Or get a 280Z distributor and use that.

Your tachometer needle is the best clue to what's happening with spark.  If it starts jittering or dropping and rising, or doesn't match engine best-guess engine RPM that's a clue.  If it rises smoothly and follows RPM then spark is probably not your issue.

Jumps around occasionally.

Thats why I'm wondering if the rebuilt units of today are just too long in the tooth.

[Zed Head]

17 minutes ago, DC871F said:

Jumps around occasionally.

 

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Your tachometer needle is the best clue to what's happening with spark.  If it starts jittering or dropping and rising, or doesn't match engine best-guess engine RPM that's a clue.  If it rises smoothly and follows RPM then spark is probably not your issue.

Good luck with it.  You really gotta be very specific and notice the fine details to solve these sporadic problems.  The answer is in the fine observations.  When and what.  "Jumps around" and "occasionally" don't tell much.  No offense.

The system is essentially two parts - the "trigger" and the current control.  You could buy an MSD unit and run it with your distributor trigger.  But if the trigger is the problem it won't help.

You could also convert to points for a test.  Mechanical system.  No electronics to confuse things.

[DC871F]

The tach jumps around occasionally.

Had a turbozx a while back do it severely along with engine misfiring. Distributor and module fixed it, but since I been through a few of these already, it seems the rebuilt units arent up to snuff anymore.

Edited February 25, 2019 by DC871F

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, DC871F said:

Jumps around occasionally.

Thats why I'm wondering if the rebuilt units of today are just too long in the tooth.

 

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Good luck with it.  You really gotta be very specific and notice the fine details to solve these sporadic problems.  The answer is in the fine observations.  When and what.  "Jumps around" and "occasionally" don't tell much.  No offense.

 

12 minutes ago, DC871F said:

The tach jumps around occasionally.

Had a turbozx a while back do it severely along with engine misfiring. Distributor and module fixed it, but since I been through a few of these already, it seems the rebuilt units arent up to snuff anymore.

Not sure where this is going...  Do loop...  Good luck.

[siteunseen]

The remans are hit and miss from what I've read. Mine works perfect from amazon.com for a '79 ZX with a Pertronix 1.5 ohm Flamethrower coil. About 3 years now?

There's a cool spreadsheet someone made that's on my laptop and of course I'm using my phone. Google "distributor excel spreadsheet classiczcars.com". Good luck.

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by siteunseen