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280Z fusible links


EuroDat

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9 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Looks like they also got their numbers backward.  Three 1.25 links (key 5), and one 0.3 (key 6).

Maybe you need to see a doctor... or optometrist... Key 6 = 3, Key 5 = 1

I understand mixing things up, I do it all the time....


fiche-3.JPG

 

fiche-2.JPG

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@Zed Head I think that you are TOO focused on minutiae. You can see the forest from the trees, I hope.

As the pictorial diagram you re-posted, yes, Key 5 and Key 6 are the fusible links.

Key 6 shows THREE 0.3 fusible links and Key 5 shows ONE 1.25 fusible link.

My post #59 was to show that the factory diagrams AND fiche MATCH the MISTAKE of placement of the fusible links.

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I think I see what Zed head is saying. If you look at the drawing, the number 5 points to the rear two fusible links and the front engine side link. Number 6 points to the fender side link. That all makes sense now we know the layout is 3 brown links 0.3mm2 and one black link 1.25mm3. Looking at the table, I read Key number 5 is one link with 1.25mm2 rating and key number 6 is three with 0.3mm2 rating.

When you look at the documentation, you find a number of inconsistencies or mistakes. For people that know the cars and worked out the problems it's not a issue, but for someone new to these cars, it's confusing at least.

Edited by EuroDat
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It is funny how some of us look at things differently.  I saw three 5 arrows and one 6 arrow in the picture, then went down to see what 5 and 6 were, in the table.  The table says that 5 is a 1.25, and 6 is a 0.3.  I stopped there, with three 1.25's and one 0.3.  That was my path of thought.

But, once you're looking at the table, you can look to the right to see quantity and you see one 1.25 and three 0.3's.   So the diagram is redundant, but the redundancies don't match.

And if you look closely you can't really tell where the arrows for 5 and 6 on the front "case" are pointing.  They both end at the inboard link.

I'm just glad the little sticker-picture on my car is well-drawn and intact.  I hope it's correct.

image.png

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10 hours ago, Zed Head said:

It is funny how some of us look at things differently.  I saw three 5 arrows and one 6 arrow in the picture, then went down to see what 5 and 6 were, in the table.  The table says that 5 is a 1.25, and 6 is a 0.3.  I stopped there, with three 1.25's and one 0.3.  That was my path of thought.

But, once you're looking at the table, you can look to the right to see quantity and you see one 1.25 and three 0.3's.   So the diagram is redundant, but the redundancies don't match.

And if you look closely you can't really tell where the arrows for 5 and 6 on the front "case" are pointing.  They both end at the inboard link.

Yes, indeed. I (wrongly) *thought* that you were looking at the table, and either was dyslexic or typed in the information you saw backwards.

Until I opened the fiche, zoomed into that feature to 150%, it became clear to me at that point that there were 3 key #5 and one key 6 in the picture.

With all the information discussed earlier, we can safely assume that the key numbers shown in the picture area are backwards.

14 hours ago, wal280z said:

@Zed Head I think that you are TOO focused on minutiae. You can see the forest from the trees, I hope.

I apologize for responding that way, it was uncalled for, as well as inappropriate to add in this discussion.

zoom.JPG

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18 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Really just want to know where MSA and others get their red links, and what I have on mine.  I don't know if I have 0.69 new red or 0.3 old red, or if new red is 0.3 after all.  A test for other people would be nice too.  Plus, sometimes I test things even though they're not a problem.  I can't easily get to the conductor to measure it with the fittings on the end. 

Assuming all of the links over the course of the Z were made by Yazaki (and I suspect that is the case), the you shouldn't have to measure the conducting part of the link. The insulation thickness difference between those two series was different enough that you should be able to tell the diff between the two just by measuring the insulation diameter.

The overall outside diameter of the (red) FTX-0.7 is 2.2mm.
While the overall outside diameter of the (also red) FLWX-0.85  is 3.2mm.

Should be pretty easy to tell the difference.

And as to the discussion about the quantities of #5's and #6's... It appears that it's just another mistake in the documentation. On the pic, they are clearly indicating that there exists three number fives and one number six. But in the details below, they have those quantities switched. It's just another mistake in the docs.

13 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I'm just glad the little sticker-picture on my car is well-drawn and intact.  I hope it's correct.

image.png

I wish my stickers were readable. It would add one more level of confirmation to the discussion if someone with a 77 or 78 could post a pic of their readable stickers.

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6 hours ago, wal280z said:

I apologize for responding that way, it was uncalled for, as well as inappropriate to add in this discussion.

Not a problem.  I don't always maintain the nicest tone in my own posts.  The internet is not the world's best communication tool.

Now, off to go comment on CO's last post...

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3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Assuming all of the links over the course of the Z were made by Yazaki (and I suspect that is the case),

Are MSA's and others' links made by Yazaki?  That's my latest question (2nd edit).

Check out zcardepot's page.  Edit - the red links look thicker than the black one.

https://zcardepot.com/products/fusible-link-wire-set-280z-77-78

image.png

Edited by Zed Head
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