Zed Head Posted March 2, 2023 Share #157 Posted March 2, 2023 Is it a 1975 280Z? Is it fuel-injected? It could be the power supply to the ECU. There is a ground wire and a power wire, both at the battery terminals. The power wire has its own fusible link. Don't get them backward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHA280Z Posted March 2, 2023 Share #158 Posted March 2, 2023 Is a 78 model but actually manufactured in late 1977, so the features of the 78 model apply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 2, 2023 Share #159 Posted March 2, 2023 @wal280z THE guru for that type stuff. I have his upgrade "from the junkyard" Cadillac parts. How are you Wayne? Long time no speakie. Hope you are good. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 3, 2023 Share #160 Posted March 3, 2023 3 hours ago, DHA280Z said: Is a 78 model but actually manufactured in late 1977, so the features of the 78 model apply Weird that you said Amp light and not Voltmeter. USA cars from 1976 on had Voltmeters, not Ammeters. Maybe you meant the Charge lamp in the Voltmeter. Is it a USA market car? You didn't say if it has EFI or not either. The more details the better. Maybe @EuroDat is out there and can help out in Dutch, if it makes a difference. No offense intended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHA280Z Posted March 3, 2023 Share #161 Posted March 3, 2023 You are right I was referring to the voltmeter gauge and red charge lamp. The Datsun is an USA model with fuel injection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 3, 2023 Share #162 Posted March 3, 2023 (edited) There is a fuse that is on the supply wire to the charge lamp circuit. Seems like the most likely place to start. Does the Brake light light up when you turn the key on? That is the other part of the circuit. Don't forget to check your grounds too. Edited March 3, 2023 by Zed Head 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHA280Z Posted March 4, 2023 Share #163 Posted March 4, 2023 10 hours ago, Zed Head said: There is a fuse that is on the supply wire to the charge lamp circuit. Seems like the most likely place to start. Does the Brake light light up when you turn the key on? That is the other part of the circuit. Don't forget to check your grounds too. Indeed, there is no brake red light and buzzing (bip-bip-bip) sound doesn’t comes out either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHA280Z Posted March 4, 2023 Share #164 Posted March 4, 2023 The voltmeter works but not the Amp light Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 4, 2023 Share #165 Posted March 4, 2023 Is the T plug at the alternator plugged in? Check for continuity to ground through the bottom leg of the T on the alternator pins if it is. The alternator is the ground for the two circuits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHA280Z Posted March 4, 2023 Share #166 Posted March 4, 2023 Yes the T plug is in. Will check grounds tomorrow, now is wet, cold and dark outside. 🥶 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HusseinHolland Posted March 13, 2023 Share #167 Posted March 13, 2023 (edited) On 3/2/2023 at 5:08 PM, siteunseen said: @wal280z THE guru for that type stuff. I have his upgrade "from the junkyard" Cadillac parts. How are you Wayne? Long time no speakie. Hope you are good. Thanks so much for the link! I read through all 7 pages hoping to find somewhere where the fusible link ratings were translated into amps - the previous owner of my 75 280Z has been telling me they are 'fussy'. I'm more than happy to update this & add the H/L relay mod while I'm at it EDIT - adding the amp rating cross reference link HERE 🙂 Edited March 13, 2023 by HusseinHolland 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 13, 2023 Share #168 Posted March 13, 2023 It's been pretty well documented that what is shown as a red link is actually a brown link (they're shown in the FSM) and it is also a lower rating (smaller gauge) than the green link (also in the FSM). I never looked too closely at that chart in the past but now see that it has a yellow and a pink link. You won't find those on a Z. Maybe a ZX but not a Z. (Sorry Blue 246, no offense intended). Some of the Z car aftermarket suppliers like thezstore.com have updated their fusible link pages to show it. Don't forget that fusible links are "slow blow" fuses. Most automotive fuses are meant to fail quickly. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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