Installing a new rear main seal need help

[beandip]

I have the engine out and at present it is on a engine stand. I am hoping to be installing the engine soon but I have a question on the difficulity or lack there of , of replacing the rear main seal . the engine was rebuilt about 40k back but has not been run for a couple of years , at this point. Is shows no signs at all of leaking , but if it is not all that difficult to do I might as well. I just would be really pi4## to get the car done and having a leak. Is this a tuff thing and any unusual things to look for , or hints? Thanks

[biker]

rubber seal - 40K on the engine - couple of years in the open air -

reaction at first drop of oil on driveway

Replace the seal. I don't think it is that hard to replace with the crank in but i have never done one on a Z. I leave instruction for the experts to follow.

Biker

[ZmeFly]

but make sure you get one from nissan, i tried one from a parts store i cant remember what the brand was but it was completely and totally inferior to the nissan brand in shape form and construction.

[2ManyZs]

Hardest part about replacing a rear main seal is getting the old one out......

You can use a screwdriver driven into the thickest part of the seal and pry it out, or you might need a crows foot, but it will come out one way or t'other....

When you put the new one in, put a little oil on your finger and coat the inner lip and outside of the seal so it will slip into place a little easier. If you don't have a seal driver big enough, just slowly tap it into place with a hammer, going around the outside edge evenly or use a block of wood, just make sure it goes in fairly evenly....

[Hallaian42]

I just replaced my rear seal as i was putting in a new clutch. It is really pretty easy. Make sure you use a good seal puller tool. It will make your life a whole lot easier with that. It should just pop out. Use a good driver tool to put the new one in. You want it to go in evenly. I wouldnt recommend pounding it in with a hammer, you could damage it. That will really give you something to be "pi4## 'ed" about. :stupid: . I'm pretty sure its ok to put a little grease , keyword little, to help it go in easier. But dont quote me on that one. Have fun.

[2ManyZs]

Keyword to using a hammer was "tapping"..... I've done it many times with no trouble... just tap it lightly around the perimeter and let it seat a little at a time...

[beandip]

what do you think ? the engine was pulled apart form the tranny only a couple of mos. back . are they that fragile that they will go bad so soon ? I have been turning the engine over by hand once in a while , I confess that only every month or so. I am wondering about the front seal on the trans as well , its an automatic. There is no end to this. I started this only wanting to replace the ring gear on the flexplate and detail the engine bay . now the car is a rolling shell , gutted of all interior wireing and no front finders bumpers . I have a windshild in my office and a heater next to my desk and a dash behind my chair . Man , thinking of another project is going to put me over the edge! I just may go POSTAL .:sick:

[tanny]

Beandip,

I totally sympathize. I've been rebuilding my 73 since last fall and there really is no end to things to work on with this car, especially if you let yourself get too anal. I think you have to sit down at some point and force yourself to ignore all the things you COULD do to improve the car, and get on with putting it back together and using and enjoying it. There really is no limit to the amount of money and time you can spend on these things if you want to ignore all the other fun stuff you could be doing. Take off the wheel to inspect the inside of the rim for cracks and because you have the wheel off you might as well replace wheel bearings, seals, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, put in 4 piston brakes, heavy duty sway bar, adjustible strut cartidges, higher performance springs, new rims, shims, new tires, blah, blah, blah, ad infinitum. Maybe an engine rebuild and a new interior. You think that if you don't do all this, you'll regret it later. I'm retired and I still don't have enough time or money. Put it back together and enjoy driving it. Victor.

[HKSZ]

Definately time for a change.Only just replaced mine last week with a seal from a bearing shop- $12.00au compared to $60.00au from nissan. A couple of tips though

-take note of how deep the old seal sits in the block

-pluck the old seal out with a screwdriver but don't scratch metal

-lightly polish the crank end with 800wet&dry

-smear rubber grease behind and inside the seal

-evenly tap the new seal on with a similar size drift, the old seal can be handy for this if all else fails:D

[beandip]

Tany I am retarded also and like you , it seems that time is always being pulled several directions. Also funds availability for the Z project is limited . I have enough with the present job at hand and I am starting to want to egnore more dissambly. I just dont want to pull the damn engine in a couple of mos. because of an oil leak. Talk about postal ! HKSZ thanks for the info. on this , at least you make it sound like a easy enough job now with the engine out and I need to pull the pilot bearing any way, here we go again , AS LONG AS I AM WORKING RIGHT HERE ANYWAY!! It's a curse !:stupid:

[Victor Laury]

This Victor agrees with the other Victor. There's got to be a point where you stop planning on the job and just do the job. I'm getting ready for a clutch replacement. I've gathered up all the pieces and some "While I'm at it" pieces. I was planning on have on of my extra 4 speeds rebuilt and swap it out, "While I was at it". But, Dam, I just gotta do the job, and get it over with!

[tanny]

You probably already know this method, but if you don't have a pilot bushing puller, pack the hole full of grease, find a bolt, rod, or socket that fits fairly tightly inside the pilot bushing, drive it into the grease filled hole and the pressurized grease will push the bushing out from the back side. Works really well. Victor.