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Engine test stand


Dave WM

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14 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Ahh, the old stuck injectors.   I remember that.

As horrible as the engines sound when they have dead cylinders I don't think it really hurts them much at low RPM.  Since you have a cooling system now maybe you could let it run while you tap the injectors, swap injectors plugs, run some electrical checks, squirt the occasional blast of starter fluid in, etc.  The injectors might be slow to close, I think that the solenoid is stronger than the closing spring.  Maybe you have some rich cylinders.  Hot injectors will probably loosen up more than cold.

Have you made sure that the computer and injectors have a good ground back to the battery?  Since you have a funky wiring setup.  One of those commonly overlooked things.

The only real ground I have is the neg cable to the eng block, the fat ones (same as pos to starter) the rest of its uses the thick aux cable off the battery term so no real ground so to speak back to the engine block. The ground to the engine that I could find was a single ground of the small harness that looks to be part of the BCDD, also had some distributor advance vacuum solenoid stuff. One thing I did not try was the other dizzy pickup, there is a central connector (wide hole) and two small holes, I presume for the different advance that is used for warm up etc..

The EFI harness itself did not have a ground wire, just a bat + and a bat - . Well marked I must add (small factory tags). Going out for new BR6ES ngks tonight, will give it another go tomorrow. Yes I would have like to just let it run for a while now that the cooling is taken care off. It was getting better sound the 1st time (no water) but I only had it going for about 1 min max. I agree that a longer run time may very well work out the issues.

Edited by Dave WM
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If the battery is tip-top charged, it should be able to run the EFI and ignition for quite some time even without an alternator.

5 hours ago, Dave WM said:

one thing I have not done is to monitor the batter voltage. No alt installed and I don't have the battery charger on while its running.

 

 

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got the new plugs and some rad hoses last night. will install it the weekend with out the fan, just use a box fan in front of it (don't need the drama of an open fan running while testing). I think today I am going install the plugs and crank it ignition off (hope I have enough coffman cartridges..., come CO you gotta name that tune) take a look at the plugs for sign so fuel.

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more testing, new plugs spark not hooked up to dizzy, I wanted to see if the plugs had differing amount of gas on them (dampness). while cranking. Could not pickup any level of dampness. injectors clicking but did not seem as loud as I am used to. dropping resistors stone cold (maybe that is normal) 2.6 ohm resistance on injectors. I am still rigging up a rudimentary muffler since if I get it going I want to run it long enough to sort out the misfire. fuel pressure looks good. I will most likely pull the rail next, its not hard to get at and I really really want to see the injectors fire gas.

I don't know if this is a problem but I do have the AFM hanging in an odd way, that would tend to have gravity keeping the flapping door closed. I did try holding the door open to see if I could get more gas deposited on the plugs, no joy.

Added back the cold start valve that can be manually fired.

Added a muffler so I can run without bugging the neabours.

 

 

Edited by Dave WM
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