Engine test stand

[Dave WM]

I am going to check the distributer wires and see if they are color coded.

[Dave WM]

1.5k on the leads I am connected to where it works, so working on the dual coil in series (not correct hookup)

I will give it another try after it completely cools down. then will try the single coil (750 ohms read on small eyelet and large eyelet )correct per diagram and see if it acts up again.

 

 

 

Edited April 29, 2019 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

I have a backup single coil distributer, but the reluctor is damaged from impacting something (I presume the coil) and its not mounted so I would have to transfer the bottom parts that bolts to the engine to use it. It did spark the coil in my early test, but I was not sure if all the reluctor tangs were firing it.

Would be nice either way if I could confirm this as a ign problem, and not a EFI or injector problem.

 

Edited April 29, 2019 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

hmmm

ok single either coil or coils in series seem to have no  effect, and it starts right up and runs much better now. This morning it was giving me fits before the pickup coil fix, now I cant get it to chug.

It still not perfect, but considering the quality of the plugs I am not surprised.

Wish I had a clue. Going to give it a rest and start over tomorrow on a cold engine.

 

[Dave WM]

running kinda cool how the stll pic of the video captures the distributer wires.

 

[Dave WM]

next project will be to hook up the oil pressure/water temp and tach if Jeff has a spare. Still need to check the timing, I did notice the dizzy vacuum servo is leaking. I assume the mech advance is ok since it can be turned and springs back (the rotor). Weld up the exhaust to quiet it down a bit more. Those alligator clips are prob not the best way to hook up the distributer so will work on a better connection there as well, Once I am happy with the setup. guess I could but a SPDT switch an manually select it.

More tidy up coming too, only thing left connected to the power strip is the EFI, need to get some more big spade connectors that talk to the EFI fuse links and wire that directly to the battery AUX leads off the cables. then can tidy up the excess wire lengths now that the form is settling down.

Really glad I invested in getting the alt to work, don't have to worry about the battery anymore.

Edited April 29, 2019 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

1.5k on the leads I am connected to where it works, so working on the dual coil in series (not correct hookup)

I will give it another try after it completely cools down. then will try the single coil (750 ohms read on small eyelet and large eyelet )correct per diagram and see if it acts up again.

I screwed up in my post above, it would be Red and Brown that would give you the two in series connection.  Green is common.

Interesting that it ran with two pickup coil pulses to the module.  Seems like you might get one strong spark, then a weak one because the coil has only 6 degrees to recharge.  Might be enough time at idle though.  You had a "dual point" setup.

Do you have the vacuum advance hose connected?  Those ball bearings can get rusted and sticky.  Surprised that you haven't put a timing light on it yet, but timing by ear can be fun I guess.

[Dave WM]

yea the coil hookup seem to have little effect, not really sure what happened that it seems to be working much better. Will tidy up and get some more instrumentation. The vacuum advance is connected but the diaphragm is clearly leaking (will not hold a vacuum). I could swap it for a spare, but one change at a time. Timing light next, but I have to go read up on it. Could not find an old school fixed light, now they have some adjustment that you have to dial in. I think delays the firing so you always just look for TDC and then read the degrees of advance. Seems overly complicate to me. Maybe worth it if you did not have the scale built into the pointer I suppose.

I really wish I had a smoking gun to point to, but lets see how it goes tomorrow on a cold start before declaring victory.

Edited April 29, 2019 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

You can just leave the dial-back lights set to zero and they act as normal timing lights.

Don't forget that the extra wire on the dual pickup distributors still generates voltage.  Apparently it can be pretty high voltage too.  Looking for a place to go.  Might want to isolate the free end.

 

[Captain Obvious]

You do know that the signal coming from those VR pickups is polarity dependent, right? Even though it's an A/C signal, the phasing is important. So my guess, based on what I'm reading. is that you had it hooked up backwards earlier on, but with all the alligator clipping and such, you "accidently" swapped the polarity and got it connected properly.

And FYI... That's the reason they used two different sized lugs. That forces you to get the polarity correct when you make the connections to the terminal block. The posts in the terminal block are sized such that you can't connect it wrong. Poka-Yoke.

[Zed Head]

That's a good one.  An unsteady timing light is the sign.  The timing jumps around because the trigger point is inconsistent.  That timing light is looking more valuable.

[Dave WM]

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

You do know that the signal coming from those VR pickups is polarity dependent, right? Even though it's an A/C signal, the phasing is important. So my guess, based on what I'm reading. is that you had it hooked up backwards earlier on, but with all the alligator clipping and such, you "accidently" swapped the polarity and got it connected properly.

And FYI... That's the reason they used two different sized lugs. That forces you to get the polarity correct when you make the connections to the terminal block. The posts in the terminal block are sized such that you can't connect it wrong. Poka-Yoke.

I did not realize that. thanks for the heads up.