1976 280z engine runs rough then dies, will not idle.

[mbz]

I'm looking at this one:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=46963&cc=1209226&jsn=1

[Dave WM]

looks ok. If you can you may want to look up the OE part number and just google that just to see what comes back.

Edited March 31, 2019 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

I found this

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-regulator-press~22670-n4200.html

[Dave WM]

Just make sure you have the right configuration, I think the link I attached is correct.

I am not 100% sure its correct as it uses a superceded part number.

The PN in the carpartsmanual site is 22670-N4200

before you go this route make sure you know what you are getting. Or just go the cheaper route, it will most likely be fine as well. I just like to get OE if I can.

 

Edited March 31, 2019 by Dave WM

[mbz]

6 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

The PN in the carpartsmanual site is 22670-N4200

Yes that's one of the alternate / OE part numbers listed for the part on the Rock Auto site. I went ahead and ordered it, comes with a 3 year / 36,000 mi. warranty.

If it's the wrong part, I'll just send it back for a refund.

Hopefully it's the right part and a direct swap out that I can do next weekend or sooner as time permits.

Will keep you posted.

Thank you again for all your help and patience, I appreciate it very much.

[Dave WM]

good luck! hope this fixes it.

[Dave WM]

one more thing, don't be surprised if the engine running number is not 30 after the new FPR, is may only drop few psi from the engine off pressure (around 36-38). I say this since I suspect you may have vacuum leaks to correct, possible idle bypass screw miss adjustment, maybe even a hung up dash pot on the throttle return. You will just have to work the issues one at a time, but the operational FPR is 1st. insufficient vacuum will resullt in higher readings on the FPR while at idle. With that carbon build up on the plugs I suspect the EGR and maybe the PCV valve will need to be looked into as well, a leaking EGR is just like a vacuum leak. You are going to want to get that vacuum gauge and have it ready. You can test the pcv just by seeing if you can hear is rattle when shaking it. The EGR needs to be cleaned if all carbon'd up and test for function when the vacuum is applied to the port that controls the opening and closing.

[Zed Head]

While you're there you should probably replace all of the hoses.  Even the injector hoses if they have that braided hose on them, which seems to be on the rail.  Probably original.  Mine were and they eventually sprung a leak.  I smelled fuel, stopped, popped the hood with the engine still running, and a thin stream of raw gasoline shot by my head to the sidewalk.  Luckily there were no people walking by, and i had a screwdriver in the car to crank the clamps down.  The hoses had tiny lengthwise cracks.  You can probably see them with a bright light on the end of the hose.

Plus you'll probably bend things if you try to replace the FPR without removing the injectors.  I've seen many bent rails.

[mbz]

6 hours ago, Dave WM said:

possible idle bypass screw miss adjustment

I suspect this may be the case as well from the PO's mechanics notes about adjusting it to "run lean" for smog check.

6 hours ago, Dave WM said:

a leaking EGR is just like a vacuum leak.

I also considered the EGR as a possible culprit, but didn't want to muddy the thread as it was getting muddied up pretty well.

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

While you're there you should probably replace all of the hoses.  Even the injector hoses if they have that braided hose on them, which seems to be on the rail.  Probably original.

Hoses on injectors and fuel rail were all recently replaced with new hoses by PO's mechanic.

4 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Plus you'll probably bend things if you try to replace the FPR without removing the injectors.  I've seen many bent rails.

Thanks for the word of caution. Might just cut the hoses off at FPR if easier than trying to remove and reuse. Replacement high pressure fuel injection hose is not that expensive ($5.25-ish per foot).

Edited April 2, 2019 by mbz

[mbz]

So, here's the part that RockAuto delivered after waiting for AN ENTIRE WEEK! ?

The box was not sealed, torn labels on the outside. It appears to have been a used / returned product.

The return fuel line looks like someone just bent it with wrench or something. J - A - N - K - Y !

Does not look legit at all and I'm not comfortable installing this thing in my car.

Sending it back for a refund.

Going to the local O'Reily today to order the part with the lifetime warranty, hopefully it will only take 2-3 days to get the part.

Arrrrrrgh!!!!! Damn Rock Auto!

[Dave WM]

wow, that is bummer, poor QC and packaging.

[Dave WM]

this is an example of how the fuel pressure regulator should work.