Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?

[BayAreaZ650]

On 5/15/2019 at 7:25 PM, Zed Head said:

Looks like the o-ring is still around.  Not sure what transmission you have but they're probably all the same one.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/power-train/transmission-control

Here's a spendy one.

https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-32857-14600-Cap-O-Ring/dp/B01LY9R00E

Thank you for this!

[BayAreaZ650]

Hi everyone,

I'll be changing out my shocks, springs and bushings soon. I was wondering if it would be a good time to remove the surface rust and paint the rods and other removable metal parts (I don't know the technical terms for the suspension components). If so, what is the best procedure and paint to use?

 

I'm thinking of going with KYB shocks and Eibach lowering springs. This would cost roughly $300 less than Silvermine coilovers which was the next cheapest option. I would just be using the Z as a weekend cruiser.

[Dave WM]

Just remember, most folks that mod the suspension say it makes for a "firmer" ride. Are you ok with the current level of "firmness" and do you want more "firmness". If you are using it as a weekend cruiser, the stock setup may be the best option. I find my stock "firmness" more than firm enough. (going for the joe pesci casino award of using the same f word as many times as possible in a single scene).

Edited May 31, 2019 by Dave WM

[charliekwin]

15 hours ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

If so, what is the best procedure and paint to use?

I blasted and painted all my suspension components. A lot of work, and mostly just for looks (here in California, at least), but I'm happy with it and would do it again. I spent a bunch of money on Eastwood's chassis black paint that wasn't worth it. If I had a do-over, I'd just spend $10 on a quart of black Rustoleum.

[BayAreaZ650]

5 hours ago, Dave WM said:

Just remember, most folks that mod the suspension say it makes for a "firmer" ride. Are you ok with the current level of "firmness" and do you want more "firmness". If you are using it as a weekend cruiser, the stock setup may be the best option. I find my stock "firmness" more than firm enough. (going for the joe pesci casino award of using the same f word as many times as possible in a single scene).

I would like the ride to be firmer. Honestly, I don't know how the Z rides because I believe our shocks are blown (it sways quite a bit going highway speed). I would just like to close the wheel well gap a tiny bit. I was thinking of going with the Konig Rewinds in 205/55/15 if it'll fit.

[BayAreaZ650]

5 hours ago, charliekwin said:

I blasted and painted all my suspension components. A lot of work, and mostly just for looks (here in California, at least), but I'm happy with it and would do it again. I spent a bunch of money on Eastwood's chassis black paint that wasn't worth it. If I had a do-over, I'd just spend $10 on a quart of black Rustoleum.

Thank you for the recommendation. I'll take your advice and just use Rustoleum. What would be the best way to remove prep the parts before painting? Would a orbit sander work best?

[charliekwin]

Media blasting is probably the most effective because the parts are all oddly shaped and have lots of surfaces that are hard for tools to reach into. I bodged together a very-makeshift setup out of a Rubbermaid tub. It made a fantastic mess, but did get the job done. Otherwise, a wire wheel and/or scuff pad works too.

[Reptoid Overlords]

Eibach lowering springs work quite well.  KYB says not to use stock shock absorbers with lowering springs, but I've been using them for a bit now and I haven't put it in a ditch. KYB Gas adjust for the rear are easy to come by.  consider Rota Shokotan rims. 

[Av8ferg]

Are the parts you want to clean up badly rusted? Have you considered using a rust converter vice the time consuming process of physically removing the rust?

 

“The first ingredient in common rust converters is tannic acid which reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. ... The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating that serves as an excellent primer for both oil and epoxy based paints.”

If the rust is mostly surface this is a good way to good. Deep or rust thats flaking needs to be removed before using a converter.

I have used rust converters on one of my other cars with success. I’ve also used it on my steel garage door 3 years ago and the rust never came back. Just giving you options.

 

There are lots of converter products on the market. My neighbor used POR-15 on the frame of his entire classic car. Came out awesome!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[siteunseen]

13 hours ago, charliekwin said:

Media blasting is probably the most effective because the parts are all oddly shaped and have lots of surfaces that are hard for tools to reach into. I bodged together a very-makeshift setup out of a Rubbermaid tub. It made a fantastic mess, but did get the job done. Otherwise, a wire wheel and/or scuff pad works too.

We were thinking alike!  Maybe just good ole common sense? 

EDIT: You posted in that thread too! 

 

Edited June 1, 2019 by siteunseen

[BayAreaZ650]

I'm looking to get the 280z painted very soon. I've never had an older car before and I'm a bit unsure about the best way to get it painted and dealing with rust. The 280z doesn't seem to have any rust except in a few spots but very minor (1 inch radius rear quarter panel lip where the wheel is and below the driver's side door 2 inch radius). The bottom of the Z and wheel wells still have the original wrinkled undercoating. I'm just worried about getting it painted and missing certain areas where rust can start. 

I don't plan on driving the Z at all in the rain either.

-Are there any hidden spots I should have the body shop look at?

- Is it best to have the body shop mask off certain areas (taillights, headlights, etc) or pull the panels off?

- Do you guys have any advice on what to tell the body shop to look for when painting and repairing the rust?

[Patcon]

Common rust areas:

under the battery, front frame rails, rocker panels, dog legs (it sounds like you have this), wheel arches (this too), slam panel under the hatch - especially the drivers side, spare tire well

As for paint, take as much off the car as you can. The paint job will be cheaper and look and last better. If you can afford to do it with the glass out, even better.