Hi everyone,

 

i will I’ll be getting my 280z within the next two months. I’m a bit unfamiliar of the steps I should take with getting the Z painted so forgive all the questions.

- Should I remove all the rubber trim pieces  before dropping it off at the body shop?

- Does removing the quarter panel windows and front/rear windshield produce better results than lifting the molding and painting under it?

- The Z has been repainted once in the past. Most of the shops just recommended sanding down a layer instead of sanding it down to the bare metal. Should this be okay?

- Does you guys have any general tips on getting a Z painted? I haven’t had a car completely repainted before. 

-Do you have any recommendations for chrome side view mirrors to be mounted on the doors?

Edited August 7, 20195 yr by BayAreaZ650

15 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Hi everyone,

 

i will I’ll be getting my 280z within the next two months. I’m a bit unfamiliar of the steps I should take with getting the Z painted so forgive all the questions.

- Should I remove all the rubber trim pieces  before dropping it off at the body shop?

- Does removing the quarter panel windows and front/rear windshield produce better results than lifting the molding and painting under it?

- The Z has been repainted once in the past. Most of the shops just recommended sanding down a layer instead of sanding it down to the bare metal. Should this be okay?

- Does you guys have any general tips on getting a Z painted? I haven’t had a car completely repainted before. 

 

On 6/26/2019 at 7:13 PM, BayAreaZ650 said:

The fuse blew immediately. The combo switch and the turn signals won't work at all and the wipers turn on by themselves.

 

On 7/3/2019 at 6:29 PM, wal280z said:

 

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short...

I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site....

Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams...  https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution.

I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................

Edited August 7, 20195 yr by wal280z
clarification in bold

4 minutes ago, wal280z said:

 

 

Debbie Downer reply: Did you figure out why the fuse blew? It helps other people searching to find what their problem might be when users provide a solution.

I'm guessing that you must have figured it out since it is running, or you're just planning on driving it during the day. and without turn signals.....................

I found out that the hazard switch was disconnected and some wires were disconnected as well. Cleaned and connect everything. Waiting on a fusible link through the mail.

1 hour ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Should I remove all the rubber trim pieces  before dropping it off at the body shop?

- Does removing the quarter panel windows and front/rear windshield produce better results than lifting the molding and painting under it?

- The Z has been repainted once in the past. Most of the shops just recommended sanding down a layer instead of sanding it down to the bare metal. Should this be okay?

Yes, remove as much as possible,  even with the windshield rubber lip raised it is difficult to get proper sanding and prep done so removing windshield, quarters and hatch glass will help get you a better paint job.  Sanding down the top layer then painting only works well if the layers beneath it are in good condition, no bubbling, cracks, body damage. Sanding and painting over previous paint keeps the cost to the job down but can lead to a paint job that doesn't last as along.

 

What he said ^^^^^

48 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Yes, remove as much as possible,  even with the windshield rubber lip raised it is difficult to get proper sanding and prep done so removing windshield, quarters and hatch glass will help get you a better paint job.  Sanding down the top layer then painting only works well if the layers beneath it are in good condition, no bubbling, cracks, body damage. Sanding and painting over previous paint keeps the cost to the job down but can lead to a paint job that doesn't last as along.

 

Thank you for this. I was wondering if I’d be able to removing the 4 windows myself? Then maybe I could just hire an auto glass company to install back once the paint job is complete. Do they sell the rubber molding for all 4 windows? 

 

One quote i got said they'll sand it down to the original coat and If it looks good, they’ll prep and epoxy it. Then they’ll be using PPG Omni Plus basecoat and Spi universal clear.

7 hours ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Thank you for this. I was wondering if I’d be able to removing the 4 windows myself? Then maybe I could just hire an auto glass company to install back once the paint job is complete. Do they sell the rubber molding for all 4 windows? 

 

One quote i got said they'll sand it down to the original coat and If it looks good, they’ll prep and epoxy it. Then they’ll be using PPG Omni Plus basecoat and Spi universal clear.

You need to buy this book, https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022 , it is inexpensive and priceless, it will answer all your questions. Or search the archives of this forum for windshield removal, many threads on the subject.

Your painters description sounds perfect, both those products are top quality.

Edited August 8, 20195 yr by grannyknot

12 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You need to buy this book, https://www.amazon.com/How-Restore-Your-Datsun-Z-Car/dp/1931128022 , it is inexpensive and priceless, it will answer all your questions. Or search the archives of this forum for windshield removal, many threads on the subject.

Your painters description sounds perfect, both those products are top quality.

Thank you

Hi Everyone,

I recently just did the valve adjustment and tinning adjustment and the car is running so much better!

I did notice that the Z is consistently running past the halfway point these days. It stays exactly around where the needle is on the photo. The radiator has no leaks. Is it time to replace the radiator?

Temp will depend on the thermostat, 160 or 180 degrees for example.  That looks normal to me and is about where mine runs.

 

put a cooking thermos in the rad start the car, let it warm up see what it reads, prob 185 looks fine. If the old rad looks good I would leave it, or get it rebuilt (new core) if it looks bad. a rad shop will charge you about 300$ maybe more. Lots of folks put those cheap China made alum one in there, I would not trust it. Would rather have a quality shop re do the old one.

Edited August 21, 20195 yr by Dave WM

  I agree that looks about right but you won't know for sure until you measure the temperature of the coolant when it's hot.