Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?


BayAreaZ650

Recommended Posts


I was able to get to quite a few things in the Z this weekend. I measured the temperature while the Z is running and it’s At the right temperature. Thank you for the advice fellas.

I was working on the suspension this weekend as well. My ball joints are oozing out so I want to replace them. I saw a ball joint for sale on eBay. It says “it’s nongreasable”. Does this mean that it’s filled with grease already? I was going to get the moog ball joint but I don’t know if this is greased as well.

55C231F9-8F71-4F67-BFF2-F61A2623809D.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Moog 9011 is greaseable.

Part image

14mm Thread

MOOG® Problem Solver® products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like-new suspension, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension parts brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs.

  • Construction and design validated by MOOG engineers
  • Greaseable socket reduces corrosion and wear by allowing new lubricant to flush contaminants
  • Loose or worn chassis parts can lead to premature tire wear
  • Long-lasting performance
  • Restores like-new steering and handling
Material Neoprene
Castle Nut Included Yes
Cotter Pin Hole Yes
Mounting Hole Quantity 3
Greasable Yes
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4016078500, 40160A3405, 40160A8600, 40160A8610, 40160A8625, 40160U7000
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

look out for cheap ball joints, avoid them, moog is good, I got a "Sankei 555" made in japan. Neabour had a cheap ball joint BREAK on him Don't know the details but that was enough for me. The OE ball joints may be fine, if there are just oozing may just need a boot. IF they feel tight and have no play, you may just want to clean up and replace the boot. New is not always better.

Edited by Dave WM
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

look out for cheap ball joints, avoid them, moog is good, I got a "Sankei 555" made in japan. Neabour had a cheap ball joint BREAK on him Don't know the details but that was enough for me. The OE ball joints may be fine, if there are just oozing may just need a boot. IF they feel tight and have no play, you may just want to clean up and replace the boot. New is not always better.

Thanks for the info Dave. I didn’t know you could just get the boot. How does the boot attached to the unit?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4307

Not cheap so you would want to make sure your old ball joints are not worn out. Have to remove them, they should be somewhat tight, any slop bad, easy to move bad. If they seem ok then you could clean up (pump grease to displace all the old) wipe clean, install boot, install on car, pump up with grease unitl you start to see the boot bulge (just a bit).

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4307

Not cheap so you would want to make sure your old ball joints are not worn out. Have to remove them, they should be somewhat tight, any slop bad, easy to move bad. If they seem ok then you could clean up (pump grease to displace all the old) wipe clean, install boot, install on car, pump up with grease unitl you start to see the boot bulge (just a bit).

 

Got it, thanks for the link. I’ll be completing this repair along with the suspension components.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

have you noted excessive play in the steering parts? IIRC the inner tie rod is only one flavor now, so if you go that route make sure you get the correct outers. What is the symptom that you are attempting to correct with the replacement parts?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

I want to do the tie rod ends but I’m intimated by the install ?

If you use a small jack under the tire once you have the whole car up and get the weight off it's easy. I didn't have to use the fork removal tool, just tapped the vertical threaded rod out with a hammer after removing the castle nut.

Hollar back when you get ready to do it if we can help.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 254 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.