54 minutes ago, gwri8 said:

CO is a genius in our barnyard, err..stable,   But you're not a buffoon,  just somebody I wouldn't trust to be near my sister, daughter, or mother........?

So your wife is a bad a s s? I'll remember that if I ever get the opportunity to meet her. 

43 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

So your wife is a bad a s s? I'll remember that if I ever get the opportunity to meet her. 

Yep, she's been kick'n both of my hind cheeks for over 24 years and shows no sign of letting up.?

On 6/26/2019 at 7:13 PM, BayAreaZ650 said:

The fuse blew immediately. The combo switch and the turn signals won't work at all and the wipers turn on by themselves.

 

 

On 6/27/2019 at 12:08 AM, Dave WM said:

ok so now the fun begins, get the wiring diagram from the FSM that details the headlights for starters, you should be able to find the power lead, un plug that and see if you can clear the short on the terminal where the fuse wire plugs in. You are going to want to set things up for continuity testing and start working to see when the short goes away. My guess is the combo switch has been futz with, but you will just have to do some circuit tracing. IIRC its a big fat single red lead plug that is part of the combo switch harness. That one supplies power thru the combo switch back to the fuse box that has dual 10amp fuses for each head light. The headlight get the ground thru the dimmer, a big fat Black lead that is part of the combo switch harness.

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short...

I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site....

Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams...  https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

 

 

There's a reason the fuses blow and the wipers come on by themselves. I would try and figure that out. I fixed my combo switch by just flipping those 2 plates and some cleaning. I have that on my laptop. I will post it tomorrow.

Cliff 

The bumpers! They get a bad rap.

Edited July 3, 20195 yr by siteunseen

On 7/3/2019 at 3:29 PM, wal280z said:

 

Did you figure out why the fuse blew? I know I'm not you, and you aren't me, but I would want to figure out why it blows before I paint it... I guarantee the bumpers aren't causing the short...

I know wiring isn't for everyone, but...... there is a present for you (and every other 1977 owner), right here on this site....

Check out the download section, specifically wiring diagrams...  https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

 

 

No I didn’t fix it yet. I’ll definitely getting to it this month.

I been meaning to ask what this crack near the passenger side quarter panel could be. The driver’s side is slightly raised (middle photo). Is this frame damage or rust? Can it be fixed?

Today I fixed a leak! The transmission leak was caused by the mechanic not tightening the drain bolt?

Edited July 7, 20195 yr by BayAreaZ650

That is the lead weld that holds the roof to the rear quarter panels or sails.  They used lead so the joint could flex a bit and still stay smooth. Most Z's don't have a problem with the joint cracking but sometimes, if the car has been thrashed on the track and the body has been over stressed you will see cracks forming at that seam,  also, sometimes water gets to the lead, it oxidises/expands and a crack forms.

The D/S looks okay it just needed a bit more smoothing before it was painted, the P/S looks like the water has gotten to it.  The only way to fix it is take that area down to bare metal and dig out all the punky lead, hopefully the water hasn't gotten to the steel yet.

 

Here's the write up I went by for my combo switch.  Be careful bending those metal tabs, I broke one or two. 

http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Some photos I took.

 

 

Bayarea

Don't get the idea to weld the roof joint up solid. The car needs to flex some and the designers selected this area to flex. If you make it too ridgid you could crack the A pillars or some other area on the car!

Today I dropped my fuel tank to be cleaned by my local radiator shop. The tank had a bit of rust.

 

What would be good to use to replace the rubber liner that goes between the fuel tank straps and fuel tank?

Here you go.

https://zcardepot.com/products/fuel-tank-rubber-strap-isolators-240z-260z-280z



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If you don't care much about originality (like me) and/or are cheap (also like me!), bicycle tire tubes are a good source for thin rubber. That's what I used.

I used the pvc type floor edge molding cut to size. Worked great.