Thank you for the replies! I found old bicycle tubes sitting around ?

Hi everyone,

 

i installed led the newly cleaned gas tank and so far there’s no rust showing up at the Fram clear filter. 

 

I got the Fuel Gauge to work! The only issue now is that it’s giving an inaccurate reading. It’s showing half empty when the tank is completely full.

59 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Hi everyone,

 

i installed led the newly cleaned gas tank and so far there’s no rust showing up at the Fram clear filter. 

 

I got the Fuel Gauge to work! The only issue now is that it’s giving an inaccurate reading. It’s showing half empty when the tank is completely full.

Make sure its installed correctly. The float needs to travel in a vertical line, if the sensor is not clocked correctly it will not travel its full arc. If it is clocked correctly its possible the sensor arm has been bent, easy fix, bend it like you would an old school toilet float until its right. If not done already, you can pull the sending unit out, clean it with some evap o rust and check it over closely. Install with a new O ring and you should be good to go.

I am thinking of my 75, 77 may have a top mounted sensor, if so don't think the clocking is a problem but still would not hurt to pull it out to maker sure there is no corrosion limiting travel on the rheostat part, and the bend to fix still applies. You should get a resistance reading as well, I suppose the full tank could be reading right at the sensor and the gauge could be wrong. IIRC full should read around 10 ohms empty something like 90 ohms.

Edited July 21, 20195 yr by Dave WM

The good news is you don't have to drain or drop the tank to fix this. It can all be done under the back decking through a round plate on the passenger side.   Clocking is important.  There is a notch on the sender that lines up with a tab on the tank. Since it is a top mounted unit you have to be careful putting the sender into the tank. After your gyrate the float to pass through the opening, that float has to go OVER  two hard lines in the tank. There is a good chance that you dropped the sender float and arm are on the wrong side of those two lines.  That would in effect jam the sender are and not allow the sender to read accurately.  I'll post some pictures shortly.

First image shows the notch on the sender and tab on the tank 

Second image shows feed lines inside the tank that the float has to go over, then under the lines. You'll need tilt the sender to do this

Third images show the correct orientation of the two top posts on the sender once it is seated. This would be the angle of view if you were working in the hatch. It should seat easily but If there is any binding you'll need to readjust the sender by lifting it up and try again. You'll know when everything feels right. 

Thank you guys so much! I'll be getting to this sometime this week. Thank you again!

I’m putting back the trim pieces that the PO gave in a box. Does anyone know where this goes? I been trying to figure it  out ?

That's the carpet finisher for the passenger footwell. Bolts holes go on the bottom.

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I have KYB shocks and Eibach springs coming in on Friday! I'm looking forward to installing these because the ride in the Z has been pretty floaty. I'm thinking that this might be a good time to install new bushings as well. Is there anything else you guys recommend on replacing/fixing while I am working on the suspension?

I wanted to get your guys' opinion on tire size. I was reading around the internet to see what would be a good tire size for Konig Rewinds in 15 inches for a 280z lowered on Eibach springs. I am not putting fender flares but would like the tires to be somewhat wide but not past the fender. What tire size do you guys recommend? I was thinking 215/60/15 if this would fit with a slightly lowered Z.

 

Thank you guys.

While you're in there might as well check wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends/idler arm and replace as necessary.

 

 

Edit:

It shouldn't deter you, but be prepared to notice a very slight decrease in acceleration, or the perception of reduced acceleration when switching up to wider tires from stock 14" sizes.

 

 

 

 

19 hours ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

While you're in there might as well check wheel bearings/ball joints/tie rod ends/idler arm and replace as necessary.

 

 

Edit:

It shouldn't deter you, but be prepared to notice a very slight decrease in acceleration, or the perception of reduced acceleration when switching up to wider tires from stock 14" sizes.

 

 

 

 

Will do, I'll have a look under today. Thanks for the tip!

do some research before you start replacing bushings, that is if you go with aftermarket stuff. Lots of folks here complain about polyurethane. Noise and ride quality can suffer from what I have read.

Floaty maybe just from blown dampers in the struts. I rebuilt mine (new oring) added oil and the improvement was very noticeable.

 

Edited July 25, 20195 yr by Dave WM