Awesome, thank you guys for your replies! I will check it this weekend with a thermometer.

I was able to get to quite a few things in the Z this weekend. I measured the temperature while the Z is running and it’s At the right temperature. Thank you for the advice fellas.

I was working on the suspension this weekend as well. My ball joints are oozing out so I want to replace them. I saw a ball joint for sale on eBay. It says “it’s nongreasable”. Does this mean that it’s filled with grease already? I was going to get the moog ball joint but I don’t know if this is greased as well.

The Moog 9011 is greaseable.

14mm Thread

MOOG® Problem Solver® products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like-new suspension, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension parts brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs. Construction and design validated by MOOG engineers Greaseable socket reduces corrosion and wear by allowing new lubricant to flush contaminants Loose or worn chassis parts can lead to premature tire wear Long-lasting performance Restores like-new steering and handling

Material	Neoprene
Castle Nut Included	Yes
Cotter Pin Hole	Yes
Mounting Hole Quantity	3
Greasable	Yes

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4016078500, 40160A3405, 40160A8600, 40160A8610, 40160A8625, 40160U7000

look out for cheap ball joints, avoid them, moog is good, I got a "Sankei 555" made in japan. Neabour had a cheap ball joint BREAK on him Don't know the details but that was enough for me. The OE ball joints may be fine, if there are just oozing may just need a boot. IF they feel tight and have no play, you may just want to clean up and replace the boot. New is not always better.

Edited August 25, 20195 yr by Dave WM

13 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

look out for cheap ball joints, avoid them, moog is good, I got a "Sankei 555" made in japan. Neabour had a cheap ball joint BREAK on him Don't know the details but that was enough for me. The OE ball joints may be fine, if there are just oozing may just need a boot. IF they feel tight and have no play, you may just want to clean up and replace the boot. New is not always better.

Thanks for the info Dave. I didn’t know you could just get the boot. How does the boot attached to the unit?

they just fit over and have a wire IIRC. You would need to look on ebay and have some measurements ready to compare (they are given), I started down that road but popped for the sankie types.

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4307

Not cheap so you would want to make sure your old ball joints are not worn out. Have to remove them, they should be somewhat tight, any slop bad, easy to move bad. If they seem ok then you could clean up (pump grease to displace all the old) wipe clean, install boot, install on car, pump up with grease unitl you start to see the boot bulge (just a bit).

 

54 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4307

Not cheap so you would want to make sure your old ball joints are not worn out. Have to remove them, they should be somewhat tight, any slop bad, easy to move bad. If they seem ok then you could clean up (pump grease to displace all the old) wipe clean, install boot, install on car, pump up with grease unitl you start to see the boot bulge (just a bit).

 

Got it, thanks for the link. I’ll be completing this repair along with the suspension components.

If you do the tie rod ends remember the driver's side has left handed threads. Lefty tighty, righty Lucy.

 

3 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

If you do the tie rod ends remember the driver's side has left handed threads. Lefty tighty, righty Lucy.

 

I want to do the tie rod ends but I’m intimated by the install ?

have you noted excessive play in the steering parts? IIRC the inner tie rod is only one flavor now, so if you go that route make sure you get the correct outers. What is the symptom that you are attempting to correct with the replacement parts?

3 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

I want to do the tie rod ends but I’m intimated by the install ?

If you use a small jack under the tire once you have the whole car up and get the weight off it's easy. I didn't have to use the fork removal tool, just tapped the vertical threaded rod out with a hammer after removing the castle nut.

Hollar back when you get ready to do it if we can help.