Yeah, but I'm not easy.  

and nasty

2 hours ago, Dave WM said:

are you sure its the injector and not the wire connection to the injector? They often become corroded and you end up with poor contact of the pins. I don't know exactly what is done to refurbish injectors, they don't look to be rebuildable other than replacing the small filter screen and plastic cap on the tip. There are places that offer cleaning services if its just a matter of improving the flow.

I tested the wire correction for all 6 injectors and they are working. One of the injectors isn't firing.

I stripped the 2 out of 4 wheel studs on the front driver's side ? To change out the wheel studs, do I need to remove the calipers as well?

Thank you.

 

You need to remove the calipers to remove the rotors and hubs.  The rotors are bolted to the hubs, they are essentially one piece.  You can hang the calipers using a strong string or wire, you don't have to break the brake fluid seal.

But, I think that it's possible to change the lugs while everything is assembled.  It's easier to have the hubs off and use a press, of course, but you can knock the old ones out and use stacked nuts and/or washers to pull the new ones in, while they're on the car.  Just takes a little more ingenuity.

I just completed most of the engine tune up work today ?

Now it's time to move onto the suspension. The stock suspension is very bouncy on our 1977 280z. My fiance and I are mainly going to be using the Z for driving around on the weekends and also for hitting the canyons every now and then. I want to lower the car to 1-1.5 inches. I don't plan on putting fender flares and maybe just using 215 tires on 16 inch wheels.

What do you guys think would be the best option for suspension? I was looking at Megan Coilovers for $800, CX Racing for $882 or just eibach springs and KYB struts. How do you guys like your setups?

Did you fix those lugs?  Just curious.

That's quite a cost spread on your suspension options.  Lowering definitely helps with roll in the corners.  But new struts/inserts alone should get rid of the bouncy feeling.  You're blending your solutions together.  It could still be bouncy after lowering.

The stock setup is very good for daily driving, (assuming it uses them, on my 75 I had rebuildable struts, some oil and o rings is all it took). I like the stock ride height just fine, makes going over things like speed bumps and in and out of driveways with dips a none issue. Plus I can still change the oil with a low profile drain pan. You can drop a very small amount to get new strut carts if yours uses them (less if you can rebuild) then drive it for a while to base line how it feels when the damping is working as it should. That way you have something to compare to if you decide to go with after market stuff.

Edited April 19, 20195 yr by Dave WM

21 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Did you fix those lugs?  Just curious.

That's quite a cost spread on your suspension options.  Lowering definitely helps with roll in the corners.  But new struts/inserts alone should get rid of the bouncy feeling.  You're blending your solutions together.  It could still be bouncy after lowering.

I was able to replace them!

 

i noticed the caliper I have is different. Do you know which calipers these are? I need to get brake pads

I replaced the rotors with the non vented original rotors for a 280z and the brake pads are slightly touching the rotors.

 

 

Edited April 20, 20195 yr by BayAreaZ650

The current brake pads are slight touching the rotors. 

Is this normal?

These are Toyota Pickup calipers. It’s a good upgrade from the original dual piston that came stock.

http://www.bleachgarage.com/z-brake-upgrade


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3 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

These are Toyota Pickup calipers. It’s a good upgrade from the original dual piston that came stock.

I think you meant single piston, right?

 

8 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

The current brake pads are slight touching the rotors. 

Is this normal?

The pads will always be close to the rotors, they self-adjust.  They shouldn't be generating any friction though, the wheel should spin freely.