Leaking Drum Brake Line, Can't Stop Leak

[BayAreaZ650]

I'm working on doing a brake fluid flush on my 1977 280z. I just finished bleeding the master cylinder and I went to the rear drums next. When my fiance pumped the brakes and held down the brake, I noticed that the line right below the hole to drain the fluid is leaking. It was never leaking before until now.

It seems to be leaking right before the nut which attached to the drum. How can I stop this leak?

[BayAreaZ650]

I didn’t turn it and it started leaking on it’s own after the brake was pressed. When the brake is pressed, it comes shooting out.

[grannyknot]

It's probably a good idea to loosen that nut, pull the line out and examine the seats, nut and line.  It could just be the nut is loose but you might as well have a look at everything.

[BayAreaZ650]

12 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

It's probably a good idea to loosen that nut, pull the line out and examine the seats, nut and line.  It could just be the nut is loose but you might as well have a look at everything.

Good idea. I couldn’t turn the nut (loosen or tightened) with a crescent wrench. I’m going to head out and buy the specific sized wrench

[grannyknot]

Just now, BayAreaZ650 said:

Good idea. I couldn’t turn the nut (loosen or tightened) with a crescent wrench. I’m going to head out and buy the specific sized wrench

Never use Crescent wrenches!  I think they were just invented as gifts for Fathers Day.

If possible, break the nut with a socket wrench first before using an open ended.

[wal280z]

13 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

Never use Crescent wrenches!  I think they were just invented as gifts for Fathers Day.

If possible, break the nut with a socket wrench first before using an open ended.

One thing I have learned - I found a Snap-On dealer stopped at a local garage. He has what you need. 10/12mm flare nut wrench. Best investment you will make dealing with these connections.

Not sure what they are priced at now, but it was a hard bite at $12 for a single wrench when I bought mine. Has paid for itself many times over by NOT rounding off the nut on countless brake lines....

[BayAreaZ650]

I bought a set of wrenches and was able to loosen it and retightened it. It still is leaking.

i noticed that the line wiggles within the flare but. The leaking point is the gap in between the flare nut and where the line goes inside.

 

which part would I have to replace to fix the issue?

[Zed Head]

Sounds like you might have split the line.  If it "shoots" out.  There are actually two surfaces, one between the nut and the back of the flare and the other between the inside of the flare and the cone inside the hole.  The inner surface is where the sealing happens, the nut presses the flare on to the cone.

Take it off and look closely.  The nut will slide back allowing you to see the flare on the end of the line.

Here's an example.  Click through the pictures and you'll see the cone also.

http://www.fedhillusa.com/?page=flare

 

[S30Driver]

The good news is, that is a bridge line between the flex hose & the wheel cylinder.  If the existing line can't be repaired satisfactorily, it is replaceable.

As Wayne has eluded to, a good quality flare wrench is important to have.

[BayAreaZ650]

Thanks for the replies. Can I just buy a hard brake line and the flare nut at a local auto store? What diameter, flare and length would I be looking for? What type of flare nut would I be looking for?

 

thank you!

[Zed Head]

1 hour ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

Thanks for the replies. Can I just buy a hard brake line and the flare nut at a local auto store? What diameter, flare and length would I be looking for? What type of flare nut would I be looking for?

Take the old one to the store and match it up.  They'll have precut, flared, and nutted lengths on the shelf.  You'll have to bend it yourself.  I used wood screws in a board to get the curves right and avoid kinking the line.  It's not hard if you have the old one right there for comparison.

[ramsesosirus]

I had a rear brake line rust out on my daily driver S10 last fall.

I had to buy a tubing bender (just the cheap $10 one), a tubing cutting (around $5), and the double flare tool (about $25).  Now you can make any brake line you want.  You'll need the right size line and nut.

PRACTICE making your double flares on scrap lines first... don't ask how I know... 

ALSO, in case you read about it, compression fittings ARE NOT for brake lines, even though parts stores sell them as such