My '72 240Z will crank but won't start.

[Jon, the BIG boy]

Saw your website while looking for info on the 240Z ignition. Could I ask you for some advice?

Last night, my '72 240Z simply would not start and I had to have it towed home. The starter cranks OK, but the engine will not fire--not even once.

Today I have been troubleshooting it and have isolated the problem as being electrical, somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil. There is no fire coming out of the coil.

However, I have been able to start it by "hotwiring" it. When I run a wire from the (+) pole of the battery to the (+) pole of the coil, I can start it normally with the key. It seems to run OK but I'm afraid to run it very long like this as I'm not sure if I might burn out something.

Two Questions:

1. Do you have any idea what the problem stems from or what I should check? Faulty ignition switch? Broken wire somewhere? Dirty connection?

2. Will I damage anything by running the car with this hotwire jury rigged from the battery instead of thru the ignition? If I need to drive it to a repair shop, this is the only way I'll have to do it, short of towing it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Feel free to ask me any questions or clarify any point.

Many thanks,

Jon W

thebigboy@earthlink.net

[Mike]

John,

I would check all of your connections. And, I would double check all of your connections.

I had similar troubles with my distributor only to find out that the low-voltage connection was rusted. After I replaced the connector, it ran like a dream.

I also had troubles with the similar "clamp" connection to the resistor. It actually came off completely after hitting a bump in the road. Engine died immediately. After I hooked it back up, she got me home.

Check 'em all. Use some needle-nosed pliers to tighten them if necessary. You can also use WD-40 to clean out and prevent water from entering the connections.

Just a few tips..

[m]

------------------

Mike Gholson

1971 240z, Mikuni Carbs, Tokico 5-way Adjustable Struts, Ferarri Yellow, Stock Engine, 15x9 wheels w/50 series Falken tires, Currently being restored.

[visionary]

Originally posted by Jon, the BIG boy:

Saw your website while looking for info on the 240Z ignition. Could I ask you for some advice?

Last night, my '72 240Z simply would not start and I had to have it towed home. The starter cranks OK, but the engine will not fire--not even once.

Today I have been troubleshooting it and have isolated the problem as being electrical, somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil. There is no fire coming out of the coil.

However, I have been able to start it by "hotwiring" it. When I run a wire from the (+) pole of the battery to the (+) pole of the coil, I can start it normally with the key. It seems to run OK but I'm afraid to run it very long like this as I'm not sure if I might burn out something.

Two Questions:

1. Do you have any idea what the problem stems from or what I should check? Faulty ignition switch? Broken wire somewhere? Dirty connection?

2. Will I damage anything by running the car with this hotwire jury rigged from the battery instead of thru the ignition? If I need to drive it to a repair shop, this is the only way I'll have to do it, short of towing it.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Feel free to ask me any questions or clarify any point.

Many thanks,

Jon W

thebigboy@earthlink.net

Jon, I am experiencing the same problem. I just had my automatic transmission rebuilt and while putting a couple of hundred miles on the rebuild, I ran out of gas, OOPS. Anyway, after replacing the filters and electronic fuel pump, I tried to restart my 73 240z to no avail. I checked for spark and found I did not have any from the coil to the distributor. I replaced the coil with an high output Accel, replaced the points and condenser, once again, with no success. The distributor is a '73 single point. If you have any suggestion, PLEASE let me know...

Thanks,

Keith Short

[Jon, the BIG boy]

Keith:

I did three things--all of which were suggested by the good guys in this conference.

I'm not sure which one worked. But the bottom line is that the thing cranked right up after I did all three.

1. replaced the ballast (mine was broken--I may have done this in the removal process, but not sure; in any event, the cost was only $10.)

2. removed and reinstalled the ignition switch several times to try to clear any corrosion that may have built up on the pins and prevented clean connection (it turns out that there was NO corrosion.)

3. replaced the fuse controlling the ignition and other things (as I recall, it's on the left side, third one down--10A.) The link appeared to be intact, however, the glass easily twisted inside the metal cap and I *think* severe it. I dunno.

In any event, after doing all three of the above, I disconnected the hotwire, inserted the key into the ignition, CROSSED MY FINDERS and said a silent prayer to the starter gods....and turned the key.

VIOLA!! It cranked right up.....and I haven't had a problem since. Give these a try. As always, YMMV. :-)

Good luck and keep ZZzz-z-z-z-ing.

Jon, the BIG boy

thebigboy@earthlink.net