sheared water pump bolts

[kenward1000]

Leaking water pump, possibly the original pump.  Searched all the forums, Googled & YouTubed.  Used pen oil, heat cycles, shocked the bolts, still 3 of 5 fasteners sheared during gentle removal including both M8 (one at the head and one at the threads) and the long skinny M6 (at the threads).  sigh.  Looks like to deal with extracting the sheared bolts, need to remove the timing chain cover.  Sounds like draining the oil, removing the oil pump.  Then can remove the distributor then the timing chain cover.  Timing (points ignition) is good right now, want to remove the distributor w/o screwing up the timing.  What's the pro method for setting up the engine  before removing the distributor?  Thanks

[grannyknot]

Set the no# 1 piston at TDC on a compression stroke, take lots of photos before you tear it down.

Those water pump bolts sheared off in the timing cover can very difficult to remove, sometimes easier to get a second hand timing cover instead.  The ones in the block usually have part of the shank of the bolt sticking out so you can get a hold of it,  if you have access to an oxy/acet torch that is the easiest way to get the bolt hot enough to break the corrosion, MAP gas can work but the iron block pulls the heat away so fast that it can take awhile.  Get the area quite hot then quench with WD40 or something similar, repeat a few times then lock on with Visegrips and try to wiggle back and forth.  Don't try to unscrew it all at once just forward and back a tiny amount.

[7tooZ]

I would start TDC. Remove the fan and belt drive . I removed the radiator to give good access to the front of the engine. I used a puller to get the harmonic balancer off and the oil pump drive gear off the crank. Don’t forget the two 10mm bolts. Consider replacing the timing chain  gear and tensioner and water pump. You may be able the loosen the pan bolts enough to get the front cover off. I had to lower my sway bar to get th oil pump bolts out. I decided to remove the pan and check the bottom end. I center drilled the bolts then tapped new threads. I bought a stainless bolt set. You have to rotate the engine to get the pan out.  new front seal is needed. 

Ps I have a front cover set I don’t need happy to send it to you. 

Im sure I messed something

[kenward1000]

To get #1 on TDC on compression:  remove the valve cover, remove spark plugs, rotate engine via crankshaft pulley nut until #1 piston is at top travel limit with intake and exhaust valves closed, following the intake stroke?

ZtooZ: "Ps I have a front cover set I don’t need happy to send it to you." Are you offering a timing cover or what?

Thanks all!

[kenward1000]

Got the engine set up at TDC on #1 on compression, by watching the valves, watching the piston, confirming with the distributor rotor.  Turned the engine over via the 27mm crankshaft pulley nut.  Scribed the distributor mount plate, removed the distributor.  Removed the oil pump, after unbolting the sway bar from the frame rails.

Ready to start removing the timing cover bolts.  The crankshaft pulley has to come off.  Is there a special tool needed for holding the crankshaft pulley while removing its nut?

Thanks for reading.

[Patcon]

8 hours ago, kenward1000 said:

Got the engine set up at TDC on #1 on compression, by watching the valves, watching the piston, confirming with the distributor rotor.  Turned the engine over via the 27mm crankshaft pulley nut.  Scribed the distributor mount plate, removed the distributor.  Removed the oil pump, after unbolting the sway bar from the frame rails.

Ready to start removing the timing cover bolts.  The crankshaft pulley has to come off.  Is there a special tool needed for holding the crankshaft pulley while removing its nut?

Thanks for reading.

You can put it in gear if it's a straight drive. An impact wrench will sometimes turn them off even if the engine isn't held

[Namerow]

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

An impact wrench will sometimes turn them off even if the engine isn't held

Electric impact wrench worked first time for me.  And the harmonic balancer/pulley slid off easily afterwards (no need to use a puller).

Elsewhere:  Although this may be too late to help you now, I had good luck with both the timing cover (and water pump) bolts by using a non-power impact tool (the type that you hit with a hammer).  Worth considering if you have yet to start on the timing cover bolts.

Edited April 22, 2019 by Namerow

[7tooZ]

Yep, just did a valve job and during the process ended up with two sets Don't plan on needing it any time soon. It will end up in the storage shed never to be found when needed. Let me know where to send it

[7tooZ]

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

You can put it in gear if it's a straight drive. An impact wrench will sometimes turn them off even if the engine isn't held

That's how I do it. forth gear and a block in front of the wheel. Hand brake if it works

[Zed Head]

Don't overlook the original impact tool - a heavy hammer and a strong box end wrench.

[kenward1000]

Ken Ward

1050 Windsor Street

San Jose, CA 95129

Thank you for your generosity.  I insist on paying for postage and handling.

[kenward1000]

Took off the starter today and wedged the flywheel so I could spin off the crankshaft pulley nut w/o disturbing TDC on #1.  Needed a loaner puller from O'Reillys to extract the pulley. 

As of right now, I can't seem to get the timing cover to budge.  Have removed all the fasteners around the perimeter, the two Ninja bolts on top and the oil pan bolts.  I've cycled pen oil and MAP heat around the edges.  Next up is to take some box cutter blades and drive them in around the perimeter, hoping to break the timing cover free of the block's front face.  Any other suggestions would be appreciated.