electrtical Hazard switch & flasher help '72 240z

[Mazinger240Z]

My brake lights aren't working and I was going to replace the hazard light switch and the flasher on my 72 Z. Was wondering if I needed to remove the whole dashboard to replace them or is there another way to do it? Kind of tempted to remove the whole dash just to take a look around and do some cleanup, but I'm afraid that's going to take much longer. Time I could be out driving the car.

[SteveJ]

No, you should not have to remove the dash to remove the hazard light switch. I haven't done that on a 72, but I don't recall in all of the 20+ years of using online Z car forums of having seen any thread where someone was talking about removing the dash to pull a hazard switch. Post a clear photo of the switch in the dash, and I may be able to tell how to remove it.

When you say "replace them," do you have a used 72 hazard switch? Have you verified its functionality?

[Mazinger240Z]

I bought a refurbished hazard switch, so I was replacing my current one with that. The current one works, at least with the hazard lights. 

[7tooZ]

You show be able to reach the hazard switch by just removing the radio and heater vent defrost face plate. A job in its self. But going back what makes you think that has anything to do with brake light failure. If everything works except the lib rake light I would consider the brake light switch. Have you checked it.

[siteunseen]

1 hour ago, 7tooZ said:

A job in its self. 

Yes!

And just out curiosity, apologize if already answered, have you checked 12 volts at the brake sockets? I'm pretty sure there's a wire or something on the hydraulic distribution block under the masters that will keep the lights from power??? 

Edited May 9, 2019 by siteunseen

[Mazinger240Z]

9 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

 If everything works except the lib rake light I would consider the brake light switch. Have you checked it.

Bought a new switch and the brake lights still didn't work. Tested the old one and new one with a multimeter to see if maybe the new one was just faulty, but they both seemed to work. Also checked the wires to the brake switch both seemed to be getting power. Reading other forums and from replies from another post I made, it seemed like the hazard switch was the next likely suspect.

9 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

You show be able to reach the hazard switch by just removing the radio and heater vent defrost face plate. A job in its self. 

Still sounds better than pulling the whole dash lol

8 hours ago, siteunseen said:

I'm pretty sure there's a wire or something on the hydraulic distribution block under the masters that will keep the lights from power??? 

I don't know? This is the first car I've ever actually worked on, so I'm not really familiar with everything yet lol. Another thing I probably should to check into. 

Edited May 10, 2019 by Mazinger240Z

[cgsheen1]

If you follow the wiring path from the circuit diagram:

20amp fuse -> GY hazard (6) -> hazard (7) GY -> brake light switch -> GY turn signal switch -> WR AND WB -> (harness that runs under dash & connects to body harness near glove box, runs down right side of car to rear -> GB AND GR at taillights.

If you disconnect both GY from brake switch, ONE them should have constant battery voltage. The other should not. IF neither have battery voltage, problem is in the flasher switch. IF voltage is present on one, connect them together and check for voltage on GY at turn signal switch. IF voltage, check for voltage on both WB and WR on turn signal switch. IF no voltage, turn signal switch is bad. IF voltage, check the connectors between the dash harness and the body harness near the glove box then go to rear of car and check harness and connectors to tail lights.

[siteunseen]

On 5/10/2019 at 1:26 AM, Mazinger240Z said:

I don't know? 

My mistake.  It's the brake light in the gauge that wire causes to come on.  Sorry.