Zed Head Posted July 15, 2019 Share #121 Posted July 15, 2019 On the other hand, if they are so weak that they can't take a little torque then they'll probably break in use. The only bolts I've broken are the thermostat housing bolts. I've has studs that were difficult to remove but I was more worried about pulling the aluminum threads out of the head than breaking the stud. Beside that, aren't they too tall to clamp? They don't look fully threaded. Unless they're made from cut pieces of all-thread. Did the PO have a stack of washers under the nut? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK260 Posted July 15, 2019 Share #122 Posted July 15, 2019 Stainless steel into aluminium - galvanic reaction city. The heat generated while undoing them accelerates the reaction and is what makes them resist even harder. S/S is brittle (unlike tensile steel) and you could regret this one. My vote would be leave it alone. You are making such superb progress, don’t suffer scope creep and other unforeseen issues now. iMHO of course! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted July 15, 2019 Share #123 Posted July 15, 2019 If he hasn't put a wrench on at least one to try and remove it, it's all conjecture. There are many grades of SS. Just don't know enough to say either way. Has anyone broken a stud when it's free and clear like these? They break when they're under tension, clamping, but I've never broken one when it was exposed like that. Good luck CO. I can't imagine that you'll leave those monstrosities in there after the work you put in to that valve cover bolt hole. Doing one but not the other doesn't fit inside the same brain. The manifold clamping is much more important than clamping a valve cover down. Hence my zip ties joke. It's been 8 hours, they're probably all out by now... 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundee Posted July 15, 2019 Share #124 Posted July 15, 2019 For those that have not used one, you can get a 8mm stud remover socket. Just put on the end of you extension. They work great. Another good investment I made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted July 15, 2019 Share #125 Posted July 15, 2019 induction heater tool, great for this stuff. expensive but beats the heck out of having to drill out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share #126 Posted July 16, 2019 LOL. No, they're not all out. I haven't done anything with them yet. They're all still in there. So, basically the answer seems to be... "No, there is no logical reason for the lengths of those studs." and the follow-up info of " However... Mess with them only if I'm willing to accept the possible consequences." Roger that. I guess I'll try gently to pull one and see what happens. If it comes out easy, maybe I'll try two. And so on. If the first one seems like it doesn't want to come out, I'll just cut down the extra longs with a hacksaw and call it a day. Yes, they are all-thread, and cut to custom length by hand. I don't think it was part of a kit. And no, they didn't really cause any functional problem. Other than having to screw the nuts on forever, they worked OK. In fact, the only location that was a problem was the front exhaust nut from cylinder #5. Because of the way the header turns forward so close to the head, getting a wrench on that one was a PITA. Haven't figured out what to do about that one yet, but I need to come up with something better than the way it was done before. Anyway... Small problems compared to the big picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share #127 Posted July 16, 2019 So while I'm logged in and asking stupid questions... Anyone understand the point of doing this? Here's number three: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanrussell Posted July 16, 2019 Share #128 Posted July 16, 2019 (edited) Clearly it is so the PO knew which chamber was #3 rather than #4. I am just hoping he/she counted right.? Edited July 16, 2019 by jonathanrussell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240260280 Posted July 16, 2019 Share #129 Posted July 16, 2019 Spatial Dyslexia? Or just liked to punch things. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted July 16, 2019 Share #130 Posted July 16, 2019 8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said: asking stupid questions. As a teacher ones sayd: there are only stupid students that don't ask.. Maybe the 3 is a marking from a head restorer so he knows it was one of him.. is it 123456 in all of them or just a 3 (in the 3th cylinder?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted July 16, 2019 Author Share #131 Posted July 16, 2019 Sorry for not being clear... All of the cylinder are punched with their respective numbers. I didn't take pics of all of them, but here's #4: My issue about "what's the point" is... What possible reason would there be for punching the chambers like that? What's the value add? It's not like they can possibly move around! I can understand it on things like the cam towers where it's possible to get them into the wrong positions, but the cylinders themselves aren't going anywhere!!! Even if you're trying to do something like get the same valves back to where they came from* or something, you don't need numbers. Just look at the head and hope you can count to six? * Side-note BTW - Based on the non-matching wear patterns on my valves and the seats from whence they came, I don't think he did. I believe I've spent the last couple thousand miles re-wearing valves to the wrong cylinders. Working on some of that is the next project on the agenda. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted July 16, 2019 Share #132 Posted July 16, 2019 think this is called punch drunk. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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