Fuel Gauge/Dash Help. PLEASE!

[mrbodie]

I bought a 1972 240Z a week ago. I was cleaning the dash and I pushed a little too hard on the center gauge (fuel) and the plastic pushed in and pushed the gauge back out about 1/4 inch, just enough that the needles hit the plastic and do not work now. I have tried to get up behind there with my arm and a big screwdriver to push it back but have had no luck. What can I do? Will I have to remove the dash? Or should I say, will I have to take it to a Nissian dealer to have it fixed? Are the gauges in a housing of some sort? Does anyone have any ideas? I almost cried when I did this! There is no radio at all in the car right now which helps but I still can't get up behind there at all. Has anyone had a problem like this?

Scott

sruntzel@bankmadera.com

Thank you.

[Victor Laury]

You may need a new gauge. wont know untill you remove it. This is the middle fuel/Alt gauge? best bet is to remove the consle, remove the heater panel and release the gauge. There sould be enough slack in the alt connections to see if you can re-set the plastic bezel.

What state/city are you in? We might be able to recommend a shop or offer assistance.

[mrbodie]

It is the center gauge, and they still work, I pulled the plastic cover off the needles as soon as I saw what I had done. I removed the four screws that hold the heater and vent control panel and pulled it away from the dash but there is not much slack at all and I am very afraid to start removing the HVAC attachments. I was able to move one of the big plastic defroster ducks out of the way but it seems like (and I may be wrong since I have never seen a gauge out of a Z-car) that the gauges are in a steel housing or something. I live in Oakhurst, California which is about 35 minutes north of Fresno on highway 41. If you know anyone around here that could do the job that would be great. Thank you.

Scott

[MikeW]

It's possible to get to the center gauges by going in through the glove compartment. This is much easier than trying to remove the dash or heater control panel.

[mrbodie]

Really? That does not look too bad at all. I think I can remove the glovebox. It looks like a couple of screws and it appears to be made of cardboard or something similiar. Thank you for some hope. I have an appointment to have a stereo installed this Friday and I hope to fix it before than. Thank you again.

[Victor Laury]

Is your glove box in good shape? I had no trouble swaping my clock through the box, but mine is torn beyond hope already. Releasing the hvac cables is kinida tough as it's upside-down-on-your-back-in-the footwells work. It gets more complicated if you have a AC installed. But, still doable either way

[mrbodie]

Yes, it looks to be in good shape inside. This car has no A/C or radio. Just a big hole where the radio will go.

[EScanlon]

There are actually several screws holding your glove box to the dash. Look at both sides and the bottom front edge. All those have to be removed before you can start pushing the box out of the way.

Once it's out of the way, you should be able to access the back of the gauges.

The Center gauge (Fuel / Alt) is held to the dash by an L Bracket which attaches to the Y-Bracket which in turn attaches to the body of the instrument. Confusing? Only at first. When you get the gauge out far enough to see you'll see it is a very simple and basic system.

The main problem with the Alt / Fuel gauge isn't how to remove it, it is the fact that it is WIRED into the wire harness. The two connections for the Alternator Gauge are not the plug in kind. In order to remove the gauge from the dash completely, you not only need to release it from it's access hole, you also need to disconnect the two wires from the instrument wiring harness.

BEFORE you get in there and start removing wires, disconnect the safety fuse link between the starter motor and the negative side of the battery. This completely disconnects the electrical system of the car from the battery.

Next, remove your glove box.

Then reaching inside you'll find the backs of the gauges in the center console. The screw / bolt that holds the gauge's L Bracket to the Dash is the one you want to remove first. (Don't worry about the Y just yet) If I recall right, you can use either a Phillips Head Shorty Screwdriver, OR an 8mm socket or wrench. (if it isn't an 8mm it's a 10mm)

Next carefully wiggle the protective rubber insulating boots on the wires which connect to the Alt gauge. Once you've retracted them far enough you can get an 8mm wrench in there and remove the nuts holding the wires. Since they're ring connectors and not spade, you'll have to remove the nut completely. This is the reason some people find it easier to remove the Heater Control Panel when working on this particular gauge than working on it through the glove compartment box.

To touch on that, briefly. There are only 4 push / pull wire connections you need to disconnect and a couple electrical before you can remove the heater control panel. I'll do a bit of a search as I've posted that procedure before. 2 wires go to the left of the heater unit, the other two, one goes to the right of the heater and the other goes behind the heater fan to the fresh air vent. The two electricals are to the heater fan switch and to the map light. Once you've disconnected these, the HCP will slide right out giving you full access to the center gauges.

The problem with your gauge is very simple.

The gauge actually has a lens, a diaphram or mask behind the lens all attached to the "face" of the gauge. It sounds like your lens and mask have become detached from the bezel of the gauge.

Once you have the gauge out of the car, you can fix it quite easily.

First, remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the case that hold the Bezel to the metal Instrument Case. This will remove the face of the gauge. Look inside and you will note that the Mask or cutout or diaphram is held to the face, and in turn holds the clear plastic lens, via a few melted plastic rivets. It is not unusual to find these break off and allow the lens and mask to push into the case and then impair the needles. To fix, you can either glue them in place or you can use a soldering pencil to re-melt the plastic.

Before you put your gauge back together, take a moment and clean out the inside and possibly repaint the white interior so that your illumination will work better.

Hope this helps.

Enrique Scanlon

[owenk]

I have seen some pre 74 cars with the gauges held in with the straps that come down from the top of the dash across the back of the gage then down to the top of the openning for the radio/AC/etc. The strap is held in with a single phillips screw. I do not know when the mounting changed from the L bracket to the strap.

[mrbodie]

Enrique, you were right on! I got it out (about 3 hours of work) and the little plastic tabs are broken and/or missing. I will try glueing it with epoxy and put it all back together tonite after work. THANK YOU TO EVERYONE!

[mrbodie]

I used epoxy on the bezel and put the gauge back together. So far I have the two wires re-attached and the gauge is hanging in behind the dash. I gave up with frustration. I will try and attach the "Y" bracket tonite and attach it and see if it all works. Then I get to try and install the glove box without destroying it. What a job this turned out to be. Be careful when you clean your gauges everyone. Thanks again.

[EScanlon]

Now you will be an expert on this. However, and it's still not too late, have you considered removing the Heater Control Panel?

It really isn't as hard as everyone makes it out to be, it's the best way to get to those instruments, and with it out you can do a ton of maintenance on bunches of items that you've read about here and everyone says they'd like to do.

Briefly and succinctly:

Disconnect the 4 cables going to the Heater Flaps, Fresh Air Flap, and Heater Valve. There are two on the left side of the Heater just above the Accelerator pedal. On the right side is the one connected to the Heater Water Valve, then a bit further to the right, behind the blower motor is the Fresh Air Vent.

Unless you weigh over 250#, wear larger than a 42 suit, or are ham handed and sausage fingered you CAN get in there to loosen the connection and remove the cable. Yes, it might involve getting on your knees outside the vehicle and / or lying on your back to look at this area, but it is MUCH MUCH EASIER than trying to do what you're doing through the glove compartment opening. (Also, have you thought of what condition your glove box is going to be in after?)

Remove the knobs for the radio, and then remove the nuts holding the Radio Face Plate to the HCP. This should disconnect the radio from the HCP.

With the 4 cables released, remove the screws holding the HCP to the Dash. Slide out the Map Light and disconnect it from the wiring harness. Keep track of the wires. Put the light and the light shield off to the side.

Slowly pull on the Heater Control Levers and once it's far enough away from the dash, reach in and disconnect the Heater Fan Switch connection.

As you slide it further out, you'll note the Center Vent Bellows connection will also slide out. This is what connects your Center Vent to the Heater Box. Be careful of the foam (if original) that's attached to the back of the housing for the center vent. If it's already rotted to dust, now's a good time to rebuild with some new foam. While you have the bellows out you can wash them in some warm soapy water.

That's it. The HCP is now out of the way and you can access all of the center dash instruments without having to contort yourself into impossible shapes.

Reassembly is, tritely, the reverse of removal, but it is incredibly easy once you've done the removal.

Good Luck.

Enrique