44 minutes ago, Jack Pearcy said:

 The throwout bearing I installed is identical to the one I removed

Sleeve/collar, not bearing.  The sleeves are different.  Sometimes called collars.  Look at Post #9 here - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/  Don't pay any attention to the years and models of the cars described, it's the pressure plate and sleeve that matter.

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Sleeve/collar, not bearing.  The sleeves are different.  Sometimes called collars.  Look at Post #9 here - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/  Don't pay any attention to the years and models of the cars described, it's the pressure plate and sleeve that matter.

It says the thread doesn’t exist I think there’s a problem with the link

edit: I got the link to work, thanks

Edited July 15, 20195 yr by Jack Pearcy

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Sleeve/collar, not bearing.  The sleeves are different.  Sometimes called collars.  Look at Post #9 here - https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/  Don't pay any attention to the years and models of the cars described, it's the pressure plate and sleeve that matter.

The sleeve I have is a 280z 2+2 which is the original from my car, it worked fine before I changed the clutch and flywheel, other than that it would grind in 1st and reverse 

A lot of fellow forum members helping you on the temp sensor, so I will concentrate on the clutch.

You have a serious problem with your clutch. The clutch fork should not be at 120mm in relaxed position. The fork will hit the bellhousing before the clutch can disengage.

The old pressure plate did disengage before you replaced it, right? The two pressure plates are different in height so that will give you problems, but it's puzzling that the original also won't disengage, There is something other than the pressureplates causing problems.

When you put the old pressure plate back in. Did you use the new flywheel? I thinking the new flywheel might have a different height. 

Can you check the clutch fork for extreme wear in the ball pivot and hair line cracks that allow it to flex a lot?

Can you take a photo of the clutch fork from the side? It might be bent and deformed.

Edited July 15, 20195 yr by EuroDat

You might have more than one problem.  The Fidanza flywheels are known to stick the disc to the flywheel, that green coating doesn't always wear off like it's supposed.to.  So it might be that one problem is the sleeve height and the other is the flywheel coating.

If you take it apart again, we can show you what to measure and what to check, like Eurodat suggests.

Here's a few threads about the 92 mm meausrement - https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=oswsXdywKfGCk-4Pnuid8As&q=site"classiczcars.com+92+mm&oq=site"classiczcars.com+92+mm&gs_l=psy-ab.3...1010.9742..10494...0.0..0.83.1539.27....3..0....1..gws-wiz.....0..0i131j0j0i22i30j0i13j0i13i30j0i13i5i30j0i8i13i30j0i8i13i10i30j33i160j33i299.qjmk9MsnnnM

A couple of threads about the green stuff.

http://www.fidanza.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/NEW-GREEN-COATING-ADDS-STYLE-PROTECTION-.pdf

Not sure where this guy ended up - 

 

Update: the clutch was glued to the flywheel by the green paint, I had to rip it off and use acetone to clean off the paint and it works fine now. Now the only thing left is the fact that my car wants to run rich still