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I'm on page 33 of the fuel injection bible, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

No. 5  Power relay control unit injector test, it says to disconnect and reconnect the ignition lead wire several times while listening to each injector, so what do they consider the ignition lead wire? The pos side of the coil, center lead of the coil?

I have a no start situation so working my way through the steps.

Thanks

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On 7/22/2019 at 3:28 PM, grannyknot said:

So the engine has been running well, I've been starting it every now and then to check for exhaust leaks, coolant leaks and such. Today I got the D/S seat installed  and started the engine to take it for the first drive, the engine started fine, ran for about 30 sec with the rpms roaming and then the rpms got lower and lower, I blipped the throttle and it momentarily reved up but went back down until it died. It started up again just fine but did the same routine and died within 10 sec, now it won't catch at all.

I didn't read back through all of the posts but this one and the following kind of suggests either an ignition module going bad, too many sparks causes too much fuel, or an ECU going bad. Tthey tend to go rich first then just die.

You mentioned what what the tachometer needle was doing when it was starting to die.  You talk about "roaming" and that's a sign of an ignition module dying.  Mine showed a jumpy needle, reading high, as it was kicking the bucket.

A $25 GM HEI module is a simple quick test, and always good to have around anyway.

Edited by Zed Head
perfektionist

7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Did you replace all the electrical connectors in the engine compartment? If the connector to the EFI temperature sensor isn't making great connection, it'll run very rich.

Yes I replaced all connectors except the one lead temp sensor which was in good shape.

6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You mentioned what what the tachometer needle was doing when it was starting to die.  You talk about "roaming" and that's a sign of an ignition module dying.  Mine showed a jumpy needle, reading high, as it was kicking the bucket.

A $25 GM HEI module is a simple quick test, and always good to have around anyway.

I wasn't sitting in the car at the time so couldn't see the dash tach, I was using a remote tach clipped to the #1 spark plug wire.  I have a GM HEI on the shelf but could never get it to work on the /70  240z.


So have started the engine multiple times now with no repeat of the problems, starts first try every time.  I took the car out for a 10mi. run today just to push it a bit, see if I could break anything, it is running like a champ so when I got home I pulled the spark plugs to see what was happening. Looks kind of lean to me, not at all sure how to make it a little richer with an AFM.

 

IMG_0231.JPG

IMG_0230.JPG

They are all even but very lean. The easy way to enrich is to put a resistor in series with the temp sensor.

 

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

°C   °F Resistance
-30 -22 20,300 Ω to 33, 000 Ω
-10 -14  7,600 Ω to 10,800 Ω
+10 50 3,250 Ω to 4,150 Ω
+20 68 2,250 Ω to 2,750 Ω
+50 122  740 Ω to 940 Ω
+80 176 290 Ω to 360Ω

 

10 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

The EFI system is supposed to run clean. Other than the plug color, do you have any reason to believe you're running too lean? Were you pinging?

Is ten miles enough to really get a good plug read?

Other than the plug colour, no, there are no other signs, no pinging.  I've always believed that you could get a good plug read on much less than that although I could be completely wrong. The lean looking plugs are the same ones from post#44

They actually have a little bit of carbon buildup starting on the exposed metal at the ends of the threads.  Where it's cold.  The insulators look good and so do the grounding straps.  You can see some ash on the grounding straps and a little color on the insulators.  They'll be nice and tan in a few hundred miles.

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