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F54/P79 Swap Project


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And just in case everyone isn't already tired of talk about pulling main bearing caps, here's what I did for the remaining (2, 3, 5, 6) caps.

I grabbed some steel rod just slightly larger OD than the bolt holes through the caps. Turned them down a small amount so they just barely slipped into the bolt holes. Here's the pair of them, You can see the machined ends at the bottom:
P1160409.JPG

Slip the pair of them into the holes like so:
P1160410.JPG

And when you squeeze them together, they pretty much lock into the holes giving you a handle to wiggle a little bit and easily pull the caps up off the block:
P1160413.JPG

Sure, I could have just tapped them with a hammer and used the original cap bolts to wiggle the caps off, but for ten minutes of invested time, now I've got handles.

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3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

And just in case everyone isn't already tired of talk about pulling main bearing caps, here's what I did for the remaining (2, 3, 5, 6) caps.

I grabbed some steel rod just slightly larger OD than the bolt holes through the caps. Turned them down a small amount so they just barely slipped into the bolt holes. Here's the pair of them, You can see the machined ends at the bottom:
P1160409.JPG

Slip the pair of them into the holes like so:
P1160410.JPG

And when you squeeze them together, they pretty much lock into the holes giving you a handle to wiggle a little bit and easily pull the caps up off the block:
P1160413.JPG

Sure, I could have just tapped them with a hammer and used the original cap bolts to wiggle the caps off, but for ten minutes of invested time, now I've got handles.

I’ve used the same method using the main bolts 

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I'm not that fancy.  ?  

I have a 1/4" thick x 2" wide x ~12" long plate steel with a hole in the center.  I have always just used that to pull the thrust cap.  I screw the bolt into the main cap and put a block of wood under one end of the plate as a fulcrum and then just lift the other end of the plate.  The caps have always come right up for me.

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Well you know me... I'm all about the fancy.  LOL

I was going to be doing two or three motors in rapid succession, so I figured it was worth a little bit of time to put together a couple tools that would make the job a little less cumbersome. And I gotta tell you... Those handles for pulling the smaller caps are really nice. I've done it in the past using just the main bolts for makeshift handles, and in comparison, the "handles" I made are a thousand times better!

When I'm done with the build, if either of you guys want to try any of my "special tools", just let me know!

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Now that the main caps are off and the crank is out, I honed the cylinders.

Bought a three and-a-half inch 240 grit silicon carbide ball hone dingleberry:
P1160334.JPG

I ran the drill while my build buddy @GGRIII manned the WD-40 spray and kept me in-time on my stroke frequency. I think that makes him my coxswain (snicker).

In this pic, there's an un-honed cylinder in the foreground and one that I honed in the background. I was attempting to get the hone marks of both cylinders in the same shot so I could compare them, but after all the miles the stock honing is hard to see:
P1160343.JPG

Here's a closeup of what I did. About 20 seconds of honing per cylinder and I ended up with this:
P1160341.JPG

I've got a two second video clip example that I will upload as soon as I figure out (again) how to run youtube.  LOL

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And BTW, I'm not looking to remove any defects with this honing. I'm just looking for new oil holding scratches to seat my new rings. So I may not have gotten 100% coverage on every square millimeter of cylinder wall, but I don't think I really needed that.

I guess I'll find out in a couple thousand miles!  :excl:

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4 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Of course, the stroke speed is related to the drill speed and with MY drill running about half-full, it turned out to be about one stroke per second.

I have often wondered about how folks determine this. I presume after after the 1st few stroke you can see the pattern and adjust, then you just try to be consistent?

 

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That's pretty much it, but I had one other advantage in that I had a trashed "nobody cares what happens to it" spare block here to practice on. So I had six cylinders to get the rhythm down on before I moved to the two other blocks that I DO care about. Hopefully by the time I moved to the two good blocks, things were consistent and my angles turned out right.

And having my coxswain there helped. I just like saying that.     ROFL

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