F54/P79 Swap Project

[Dave WM]

having never done this, it seems to me one of the main things to do would be to never rotation while not moving, exit with it running perhaps to make sure. I suppose you could try to calculate the freq if you can figure the RPM at a fixed rate. IIRC you are shooting for a 45 degree angle down and up, for the cross hatch. Nice to have a spare block to practice on. Sounds like something I need to grab at the JY.

boatswain

 

Edited March 4, 2020 by Dave WM

[Captain Obvious]

Yup. One of the things they say is to always insert and remove the hone while it's spinning. That's why I was "bumping" the drill while I put the hone into the cylinder. Taking it out is easier (and smoother).

And yes, you are shooting for a 45 degree angle, but it's not 45 WRT horizontal or vertical. You're actually looking for 45 degrees between the crosshatches. So each opposite direction crosshatch would be 22.5 degrees from horizontal so that when added together, they form a 45 degree angle between them.

Does that make sense?     

[Dave WM]

yes it does!

http://www.crosshatchangle.com/

 

Edited March 4, 2020 by Dave WM

[siteunseen]

3 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

And BTW, I'm not looking to remove any defects with this honing. I'm just looking for new oil holding scratches to seat my new rings. So I may not have gotten 100% coverage on every square millimeter of cylinder wall, but I don't think I really needed that.

I guess I'll find out in a couple thousand miles!  

Which rings will you use?  I bought Hasting's chrome faced for mine.  That was about 2 or 3 years ago, maybe I should check the compression numbers. 

[Patcon]

How did you arrive at 240 grit versus something else?

[Captain Obvious]

I'm using stock iron Nissan rings and "I read on the internet" that 240 grit is a good choice for standard OEM iron rings. For example, here's a snippet from the ball hone company's website.  From https://www.enginehones.com/technical.html

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
What GRIT should I order?
Hone grit is one of those topics that will vary vastly from OEM manufacturer, ring designer to professional engine builder and will depend on how bad the cylinder wear is and whether a deglaze will do the job . If you have a poor condition bore with rust or deep grooves you will need to use a 120 grit hone to remove the rust and remove the deep grooves. Then follow up with the appropriate grit depending on ring application. For a basic deglaze to refresh the engine just use the grit depending on ring type. EngineHones.com has built several engine mules (our guys race too!) to investigate the grit question with on-track results. The table below which was derived from our engines, ring manufactures and technical literature. Our best seller to commercial engine rebuilders and power-sports shops is the 240 grit hone. Our guidelines are as follows:

Iron Cylinder Ring Type:
OEM Iron rings: 180 or 240 grit
Chrome rings: 240 or 320 grit
Moly Rings: 320 or 400 grit
Plasma Rings: 320 or 400 grit
not sure ring type: 240 grit
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

And there are a bunch of other enthusiasts sites on-line that echoed the same recommendation, so that's what I went with. Granted, I did not call Nissan and ask, so I could have made a grave mistake, but I hope not.  I'm no engine building expert and I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has expertise in such areas and would like to throw themselves in front of my build train though. I don't have pistons in yet.

[Captain Obvious]

Here's the rings I used:

Checking ring gaps:

My ring gaps (like @Av8ferg) came out within spec so I did not need to do any gap grinding.

Top ring gap - Spec is .009 - .015 and I get .014 on mine.  (Note that I measured .020 to .024 with old worn top rings)
Middle ring gap - Spec is .006 - .011 and I get .009 with mine.  (Note that I measured .014 to .015 with old worn middle rings)
Oil scraper rings - Spec is .012 - .035 and I get .014 with mine. I did not measure old oil rings.