1971 240z Refurbish in Denver

[Galaxybj]

Great looking Z.  Good decision to keep it stock.  If you decide to replace your dash check this out: https://www.instagram.com/vintagedashes/ I have one for each of my 2 Z's, just haven't gotten to install them yet. 

I Have been to Jeff's shop, Rallye Sport, and can vouch for him too.  He worked on my R190 differential (4.44 from Datsun Competition in 1971) and did the final tune on the mikuni setup on one of my Z's.  Very knowledgeable on Datsuns and has raced the Z's and 510's.

 

Good luck on your transmission rebuild and the other work you have planned.

 

-Bill-

[Pinbill]

Thanks man,

Those reproduction dashes look pretty nice. I hope I don't ever decide to try and do that job, it looks pretty involved.

I hit all the nuts w PB blaster today. Then I ordered all kinds of parts, struts, springs, brake stuff, bushings, mounts, seals, ect..

I adjusted the clutch slave cylinder yesterday. It was too tight. It didn't help with the third gear synchro but it really made the car drive a lot nicer. I can't wait to drive this thing with it all dialed in.

 

 

 

 

[UM240]

Hi, what a great car. 

Have the same , Color in-  and outside from 02.1971. It is original , just missing the original engine .?

90% first paint  and drove ist over 3500 miles this year.

So keep it as it is and have a lot of fun with the Z.

 

 

 

[Pinbill]

Made some progress today.

Got the trans out and dropped it off at a shop. The guy has been working on manual transmissions for a long time and said it would be $450 labor max. This might not be the best trans for me to practice on.

Tomorrow I am going to drop the rear end, inspect the clutch, and get ready to do the main seal and oil pan.

Is it worth keeping this A/C unit on the car? I have read these A/C units aren't that great. I don't know if it can be repaired or not.

Also the exhaust is in pretty good shape. I am going to keep it. Is there a better muffler that will bolt right on to the stock size pipe with no welding?

Here are some pics of the underside of the car for fun.

Bill

Edited September 24, 2019 by Pinbill

[Patcon]

IMO any AC that gets cold is better than none at all

[Pinbill]

I guess I should have tested it before I cut the belt.

[Pinbill]

Ok, I have the oil pan down to change the gasket. I am going to change the main seal because I have everything apart. Should I bother changing the side seals while I am in there? There isn't a whole lot of info on the web. 

Thanks for the help,

Bill

[siteunseen]

I would. Get the rear cap half way down and slide the side seals in. That's the easiest way I know of thanks to @Diseazd

Buy Nissans too. I've got the p/n in a file at home I could give you tomorrow. $13 for the rear main but I can't rember the side seal price.

Edited September 26, 2019 by siteunseen

[Pinbill]

I had to edit my post because I went out into the garage and pulled out the side seals. I picked at them, exposed the metal piece, and pulled them right out. The main seal is in place as well.

I went with Nissan main and side seals. I will de grease inside where the cap seals go and use some sealant. I read about metal inserts to compress the seals better. I may go without them and roll the dice.

So far I have been having good luck with the car. I found a good shop to replace the synchros in the trans. The dude took it apart today and said everything besides the synchros looked good. My driveline is being balanced right now. I took apart the differential and got it ready to be resealed. Tomorrow I am going to take apart the struts and start rebuilding the brake system. I just need to get the front control arm bushings out before the parts come early next week.

 

 

Edited September 27, 2019 by Pinbill

[grannyknot]

8 hours ago, Pinbill said:

I will de grease inside where the cap seals go and use some sealant. I read about metal inserts to compress the seals better. I may go without them and roll the dice.

It's the metal insert that pushes the side seals out and creates the seal, without it it will leak.  Getting the metal insert all the way in can sometimes be a pain but  the handle of a screw driver is a good tool for the job.

[siteunseen]

I don't remember my Nissan's having the "nails"  but Felpro definitely had them. There's about 3 ridges on one side of the Nissan side seal. Google to be sure but I think those go towards the crank. The flat side faces outward. Please double check though, it's been a few years. 

[Pinbill]

On the side seals, I think I am going to call Jeff and see what his take is. The ones that are in there now are pretty hard. The OEM Nissan ones didn't didn't come with the metal pieces. I can orient them the same way as the ones that are in there now.

Made a bit of progress today. I picked up the trans from the shop. It looks good and has all new synchros and seals. I got the springs off the struts and all the brake assemblies taken apart and soaking. Tomorrow I will assemble the brake MC, calipers, wheel cylinders, and proportioning valve. Then I will do battle with the strut packing glands.

 

Edited September 28, 2019 by Pinbill