1971 240z Refurbish in Denver

[Pinbill]

I feel good about the side seals. I wanted to post it here for reference. There isn't much info on the web about the OEM nissan seals. It is not confirmed but I feel strongly about the following orientation being correct. There is a strip of metal on one side that is barely visible. It is embedded in the seal. I wouldn't have seen it except I tore up the old one getting it out. The metal strip goes in towards the bearing. If it leaks and I am wrong I will post up the correct info.

Got everything on the brakes cleaned up today and ready to install. Except the MC, I couldn't get it apart to rebuild it. The rubber in the caps had turned to goo and gotten all through the brake system. That might have something to do with it. I am going to clean it and run it for a bit. I will probably get a late series 2 one in the future.

The strut caps came off  and I removed the shocks. I also pressed out the front control arm bushing. It is almost time to start putting things back together. The tank is going back in with new fuel lines tomorrow or Monday. My two main parts shipments will be here Monday and Tuesday.

[siteunseen]

You're right about no info online. I got my "how to rebuild" book out this morning and here's what I went by...

I rembered them having a metal wire like strip embedded in the rubber I assume for some rigidity to push them down? I had to nip that off to get the cap to sit down flush.

Edited September 29, 2019 by siteunseen

[Pinbill]

Thats great info. It looks like both types of side gaskets are covered. The OEM one I am using, without the nails, fits real snug on its own. I have some leftover Motorcraft sealant that I really like.  I ordered the competition oil pan gasket before reading that it may be best suited for the competition pan. We will see how it goes.

Never got the second plunger out of the master cylinder but I have it cleaned up real good and will run it until I get a newer style.

Lots of parts came yesterday and I am installing the oil pan, clutch, trans, and starting to work on the front end today. It is a pretty exciting day in the garage. 

 

[Pinbill]

Big day on the car. Got the oil pan on, transmission in, and front end assembled.

The old strut packing glands worked well to press in the front control arm bushings.

Found out that there are an inner and out washer for the sway bar.

 

[Pinbill]

Chugging along on the car.... Should be test driving next week. An emphasis on Should.

I saw that a wire is loose on my back up light. I am going to solder it. It reminded me that my car turns over in gear. Did late 1971 240zs come with a neutral safety switch?

Thank for any info,

Bill

[Mark Maras]

 No neutral safety switch on the early 71s nor a seat belt warning buzzer. Not much extraneous crap on the early ones.

[Pinbill]

Ahhh, I have to make sure I don't put the car through the back of the garage. Haha.

I had the console off to replace the inner shift boot. The light in the defroster switch is burned out. While reading about it, I found out the later cars have a neutral light as well. Mine also has a blank next to the defroster switch.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[Pinbill]

Another big day. Today it was my daughters birthday party at the house and I still got the exhaust painted, the steering rack bushings installed, the sway bar bushings in, and the differential sealed up.

I came across a post about bearing preload on the pinion bearing when installing the flange. I changed the pinion seal and removed the flange. Should I do anything special when re installing the flange and torquing the bolt.

Bill

 

[Pinbill]

A few pics of the exhaust. Hard to believe it is 50 years old.

 

Edited October 6, 2019 by Pinbill

[Pinbill]

In case anyone is still watching, here is a picture of the car with kyb shocks and spring kit from zcar depot. I also replaced the rear rubber spacers with poly ones.

Is the car sitting a bit high? Could it be the torque sequence on the rear bushings making the car ride so high?

I tightened the control arm brackets and differential mount cross member nuts with the car in the air. Then I tightened the large bolts with the car on the ground and the suspension loaded.

Edited October 6, 2019 by Pinbill

[siteunseen]

I'd think after driving it should drop down a bit. Fill the tank too.

Nice looking car.

Edit: I know when I rotate my tires it sits higher for a minute.

Edited October 6, 2019 by siteunseen

[Pinbill]

Thanks man, it is a real bought it from an old lady story. I am going to take her for a ride when I get things dialed in. It should be a reliable driver soon.

I can take it for a test ride tomorrow. I need to put in the driveshaft, exhaust, and fill the differential then I can drive it around the block.

Ran into a snag on the brakes though. I rebuilt the proportioning valve and now am not getting enough fluid to the rear brakes. Front brakes seem to work OK. There is a thread where a guy has similar symptoms. I am going to take it apart tomorrow and make sure the seals are going in the right direction.