1971 240z Refurbish in Denver

[siteunseen]

2 hours ago, Patcon said:

The steering shaft ujoints are NLA but there is a 4 wheeler U joint that will work. Kawasaki I believe. I don't remember the # off hand.

"For those in need the joint is made by Motor Master and the specific unit is: Kawasaki ATV700"

@Dr. 240Z found them for $22 in 2014.  Good luck.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+steering+shaft+u+joints+replacement+kawasaki+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=240z+steering+shaft+u+joints+replacement+kawasaki+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.40742j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

Edited January 16, 2020 by siteunseen

[Pinbill]

Thanks man, I skimmed that article and didn't look hard enough. Thank you.

 

[w3wilkes]

On 1/15/2020 at 9:30 AM, Pinbill said:

Anyone know a tech or enthusiast near the Denver area that can adjust the drivers side window regulator? It was jammed when I bought the car. I got it working, but you need to slide the window from front to back to roll it up and down.

Bill

One place you could try is the ZCar club of Colorado, they may be able to help you.

http://www.zccc.org/

[Pinbill]

Thanks man. I am a member. I joined in the fall and went to their car show. I didn't meet anyone who was wrenching on their own cars and was a little disappointed. I will be going to a few more shows this summer and will see what happens.

The tip about the front rail helped. I adjusted the rail and lubed it. It is working perfect. I also found a drivers side pull handle in good condition on ebay. That went on today as well. I am running out of things to do on the car.....

I think I am going remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. I need to take the carbs off to set the float height anyway. I have the square gaskets for the carbs, two carb kits, and carb to air filter housing gaskets. I am going to order an OEM manifold gasket and balance tube gaskets. Are there other gaskets I should replace while I have everything off.

Bill

 

 

Edited January 17, 2020 by Pinbill

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Pinbill said:

Thanks man. I am a member. I joined in the fall and went to their car show. I didn't meet anyone who was wrenching on their own cars and was a little disappointed. I will be going to a few more shows this summer and will see what happens.

The tip about the front rail helped. I adjusted the rail and lubed it. It is working perfect. I also found a drivers side pull handle in good condition on ebay. That went on today as well. I am running out of things to do on the car.....

I think I am going remove the intake and exhaust manifolds. I need to take the carbs off to set the float height anyway. I have the square gaskets for the carbs, two carb kits, and carb to air filter housing gaskets. I am going to order an OEM manifold gasket and balance tube gaskets. Are there other gaskets I should replace while I have everything off.

Bill

 

 

Glad you fixed it.

It's a good thing to run out of things to do on the car. I wish I had that problem!

[Pop's Z]

Bill, There's actually a lot of us along the Front Range who work on our own Zeds. There's a guy in Denver named Darrel Hoffman who was a zccc member. My friend Ken Peralez lives in Longmont and has built at least 3 cars that I know of including a V-8 car. See if you can find a Google Groups site called Zroad as most of the guys are on there. There's another guy on here  Lonetreesteve who is in Denver and has restored a couple of cars, too. Send me a pm and I can give you their email addresses.

Cheers, Mike

[Pilgrim]

Bill, I was at the last ZCCC meeting (first time I have gone) and met a number of people, don't know if you were there. I live in Fort Collins.

An FYI: I have a 1983 ZX Turbo and found that changing the original dino gear oil in the tranny to synthetic made a perceptible difference in reducing the amount of force needed to move the gearshift lever.  Not a huge deal, but a positive change  and a real reduction in effort needed to shift. One thing to watch is that there are GL-4 and GL-5 type gear oils, and manual transmissions require type GL-4, which is needed for the synchros. Make sure yo use GL-4, and you often have to dig into the lubricant specs to confirm which type it is. 

You evidently have the original shifting problem corrected with the tranny overhaul, but I thought it might be helpful to share this.

Edited January 18, 2020 by Pilgrim

[Pinbill]

Hey Guys,

Didn't make it to the last meeting. I am going to hit the ZCCC meeting in February. Its good for me to get out more.

I am running the mt90 redline. Not sure what the previous owner had put in it. I am pretty sure the wrong oil ate up the synchros.

Got everything off the right side of the motor today. The bolts for the manifold were very loose. I decided to take the smog pump, distributor, and thermostat housing off to polish them up and change the gaskets. Both bolts for the thermostat housing broke off. There was enough to grab on and I was able to get them out with heat and PB blaster. It is so nice when broken bolts will come out. I really dodged a bullet. Two questions:

Is there a reason to replace the exhaust manifold studs? I think I could get them out if I needed to.

Is there a good way to clean the zink parts without taking off the zink? There is some corrosion on most it so I may lose a lot of it when polishing. I don't want to destroy the coating if I don't have too.

Bill

 

 

 

Edited January 18, 2020 by Pinbill

[Patcon]

Pretty hard to clean up the hardware without taking the zinc chromate off

[Pinbill]

Gotcha, it is going to change into polished metal. I am going to remove the studs today so I can clean the head surface off.

I ordered the Z therapy video today. I called this morning (Sunday) at 745 Pacific Time to get the business hours and a guy took my order. I didn't expect to speak with someone. He was very nice and I felt kind of bad. I hope I didn't wake him up. LOL.

Does anyone run different needles for altitude? The car will be mostly in Denver 5600' and in the mountains up to 9000'. 

 

Bill

[Mark Maras]

4 screw carbs set at 2 1/2 turns at sea level, I found that leaning them out 1/4 - 1/2 turn at elevation worked perfectly.

[Pilgrim]

I would encourage you to change the exhaust manifold studs to higher grade ones. I would also encourage you to use anti-sieze on the new studs when installing them. The studs do have a tendency to break, especially the outer ones at the end of the manifold. Higher grade studs will avoid this problem and changing them is worthwhile since they have a tendency to corrode and lock to the aluminum head. When I had head work done on my 280ZX, one of those studs had to be removed using a laser in a submersible bath.

It's a cheap and easy update to make, and this is the perfect time to do it.