1971 240z Refurbish in Denver

[Pinbill]

Got the studs from MSA. Got a bit of rubber, weatherstripping, and hood bump stops and all kinds of stuff.

I cleaned the crap out the the head and block today. Starting to look real nice. Tomorrow I will start buffing out the brake lines and engine compartment paint.

I never in my life thought I would be buffing out brake lines......

[siteunseen]

I'm with Pilgram! Those cheap arse studs from msa are paperweights. 

Split washers on the manifold are a joke IMHO. I'll post the Nissan p/n that I bought. Google "out of round nuts" or "squash nuts". You don't want lock washers, they loosen up after the heat and cooling down cycle. My .$02

[Pinbill]

Aahhhh!! The MSA website says they are OEM, but I would hate to put bad quality studs in the head. I will call them tomorrow and cancel. Thanks for the tip about the locking nuts. The nuts were almost falling off when I removed the manifold. I think the bolts on the intake were in secure.

Found the lock nut part number on a previous post. Nissan# 14039-W1500. I will call them tomorrow.

Where can you get stronger studs? Should I reuse the intake bolts?

 

The internet and global commerce are amazing. Here is an ebay listing from Kuwait for NOS bolts, but it takes 25 days to get here.

https://www.ebay.com/i/152934531896?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=152934531896&targetid=858364557731&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9028786&poi=&campaignid=6469750552&mkgroupid=92738162767&rlsatarget=pla-858364557731&abcId=1141176&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmZDxBRDIARIsABnkbYQjLs_nMWT7sFzgrnbmkAh8hLJFknhrzAd8HRk2iSlFWC0wmN-L6IEaAjcjEALw_wcB

 

Edited January 20, 2020 by Pinbill

[zeeboost]

These aren’t OEM, but I’ve used these on a few L28 and L28et engines with good results

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F151767850087

 

I think different (slightly thinner) washers are required to use these, as there weren’t enough threads to run the nut all the way on the stud with the factory washers. 

[Pinbill]

Sorry guys, I went with the MSA studs. I figure the original ones didn't have antiseize and were good for 50 years. I couldn't find a stud that was easily ordered and closely matched the two sizes needed. I will do antiseize on the new ones. I will be dead and the motor will need to be rebuilt before the manifold comes off again. LOL.

I did order the 14037-V5005 lock nuts. I don't need split lock washers or locktite with these correct?

Thanks for the help,

Bill

[Pinbill]

Ok, here is an update.

The engine compartment detail has snowballed. I should have just pulled the motor. At this point everything is getting cleaned, buffed, polished, etc.  I was happy to see the coolant inlet bolts came out easily. It looks like either the fuel pump or the cover on the front below the valve cover was leaking.

 

While I have everything apart, are there any parts on the front timing cover that are prone to leaking that I should change out?

 

 

 

 

Edited January 25, 2020 by Pinbill

[Pilgrim]

That little plate with the three bolts is a cover for...nothing that I can figure out. When I had the head off I looked and never figured out what it gave access to.  Maybe someone has a clue.

 

I envy the openness of the engine compartment there.  My 83 280 ZX turbo is well stuffed under the hood, and the manifold side is a pain to work under because of all the turbo and vacuum tubing.

Edited January 25, 2020 by Pilgrim

[Pinbill]

I ordered a gasket for the little plate today. It was listed as a head inspection plate gasket. I would like to know what I can expect to inspect in there as well. I don't think I will have the car running again in time for the z car meeting in February. Maybe. I got the last parts off the car today. There are a few things to clean up and I need to degrease the left side engine compartment this afternoon. The radiator is getting dropped off for a flush Monday  and the exhaust manifold should be done next week as well.

I looked at an 83 280zx parts car for the transmission a few months ago. The guy opened the hood and I was shocked at the octopus that was under there.

The AC unit had no charge left in it. I took out all the AC stuff under the hood. The lines were hard rubber and held on by hose clamps. I figured they were garbage. The compressor is R12 so I think its garbage too. Are any of the engine AC parts worth saving or should I recycle them?

Edited January 25, 2020 by Pinbill

[siteunseen]

The plate on front of the head? That's for inspecting the timing chain I've always thought.

Gasket paper would be sufficient for it too, there's no pressure behind it 

Edited January 25, 2020 by siteunseen

[Pinbill]

Yes, that's the one. Thanks.

[Pilgrim]

You can always have the AC compressor rebuilt with seals for R134A.  I have converted three vehicles (2 Chevies and an Audi) to R134A and all cooled nicely. Just change the drier and orifice valve (little screen hiding somewhere in the system where the lines connect.)

I used to use Blend-Air in Dallas for the rebuilds, but they've closed. I'd have to search for another option.  When i got my 83 ZXT running I found a local shop that was licensed to use R12 and had it recharged there. Cost $200 and well worth it.

Edited January 29, 2020 by Pilgrim

[Pinbill]

That's great info. I didn't know the compressors could be rebuilt. Thanks for letting me know. The MSA kits are NLA. I will save all the parts. I don't know when I will be getting into it but its nice to have the option to put it back. I would want to put all new seals in it and new lines. The lines are 50 yrs old and held on by hose clamps. LOL.

I am ready to start re assembly today. The engine compartment and all the parts are. I touched up the area by the battery tray yesterday. Got the radiator flushed and painted. The exhaust manifold will be done at the ceramicote place today.