1971 240z Refurbish in Denver

[ensys]

 

 

"now am not getting enough fluid to the rear brakes"  While bleeding? In operation?

Did you ever get the second piston out of the Master Cylinder?

All things considered, have you given any thought to installing a fully refreshed MC?

 

Just a thought.

 

 

 

[DannDZ]

@bartsscooterservice "Datsun 240Z HLS30 32581, Production date : 5 / 1971 Matching numbers. Complete engine rebuild late 2015. First owner found back in 2014: 

How did you find the original owner so many years later? I understand that mine was the first one sold by the Nissan dealer in Sioux Falls, South Dakota USA. I've called the dealer and they don't seem to have any interest in learning more about the car. I have record of the original owner.

I'd love to hear tips on finding previous owners.

Thanks,
-Dann

[DannDZ]

On 9/19/2019 at 4:35 PM, Pinbill said:

Those reproduction dashes look pretty nice. I hope I don't ever decide to try and do that job, it looks pretty involved.

You might want to contact some paintless dent repair or detailing shop. They have some new vinyl repair techniques that may allow you to save your dash. This is based on YouTube videos. It is not something that I have seen myself or heard of anyone doing with a Z dash. But, it certainly is something to investigate before investing in a new dash.

-D

[Pinbill]

I haven't had a chance to mess with the brakes. I have been trying to find the correct throw out bearing sleeve/collar for the transmission. 

The MC was working OK before I parked the car. My plan is to take the proportioning valve off and check the orientation of the orings first. I don't think I will be able to find an early "series 1" master cylinder. They are NLA and a used one will probably be worse than mine. If it comes down to it I will take a later style one to the brake shop and have them bend up some new lines.

Here is a post where a guy drilled into the end of an MC, forced the plunger past some corrosion, and then tapped and filled the whole with a screw. I may try that before buying a new one.

https://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/419200-series-1-brake-master-cylinder.html

 

We'll see where the dash goes. There have been a few high quality cars on Bring A Trailer selling for top dollar that had dash caps.

[Pinbill]

I took apart the proportioning valve today. I had the inner seal backwards. I am getting fluid to gravity feed from the rear wheel cylinders. I think when I bleed the brakes tomorrow it will be OK. The type B collar for the transmission is coming tomorrow. I hope to be on the road Sunday.

[grannyknot]

21 hours ago, Pinbill said:

Here is a post where a guy drilled into the end of an MC, forced the plunger past some corrosion, and then tapped and filled the whole with a screw. I may try that before buying a new one.

I'm the guy that suggested that to Ken because I had to do it myself once, an NPT tapered thread will work but the best way is to have it welded up properly,  got to keep the judges happy.

[Pinbill]

Got the brakes bled and feel good about the system. The pedal is firm but I haven't been able to do a test run yet. I will try drilling the MC sometime soon.

[Pinbill]

I replaced the MC with a new later production one. I had to bend the lines a bit but it works good. I also replaced all the vacuum hoses, all the coolant hoses, and did a tune up. Points, rotor, wires, cap, condenser, timing adjust, valve adjust, and carb adjustment. I got to borrow my neighbors timing light and dwell meter. They hadn't been used in 30 yrs. LOL. The car is running really good now. I am ready to detail the engine compartment and door jams when the weather gets better.

Anyone know a tech or enthusiast near the Denver area that can adjust the drivers side window regulator? It was jammed when I bought the car. I got it working, but you need to slide the window from front to back to roll it up and down.

Bill

[Patcon]

10 hours ago, Pinbill said:

I replaced the MC with a new later production one. I had to bend the lines a bit but it works good. I also replaced all the vacuum hoses, all the coolant hoses, and did a tune up. Points, rotor, wires, cap, condenser, timing adjust, valve adjust, and carb adjustment. I got to borrow my neighbors timing light and dwell meter. They hadn't been used in 30 yrs. LOL. The car is running really good now. I am ready to detail the engine compartment and door jams when the weather gets better.

Anyone know a tech or enthusiast near the Denver area that can adjust the drivers side window regulator? It was jammed when I bought the car. I got it working, but you need to slide the window from front to back to roll it up and down.

Bill

You can get the window adjusted right. The front vertical rail could be loose or tilted wrong. It has 2 nuts that can be loosened and then it has a little adjustment room. Keep tinkering until it works good. If you can do that other work you can fix the glass.

[Pinbill]

Thanks man. Sometimes I just need a little encouragement. I will give it another shot. Looks like people have put washers in the front rail.

The auction on Bring a Trailer yesterday motivated me to refurbish the steering rack. The grease in there has to be terrible. Z car source sells a reproduction steering rack with outer tie rod ends, coupler, and bushings for $350. Seems like a good price....too good of a price. The tie rod ends alone would be $200 if I rebuild mine.

Here are some questions:

Does anyone have experience with the Zcarsource rack?

Does anyone have a part number for the rack pinion bearing?

Does anyone have a part number for the steering shaft ujoints?

Thanks for the help,

Bill

 

[Patcon]

The steering shaft ujoints are NLA but there is a 4 wheeler U joint that will work. Kawasaki I believe. I don't remember the # off hand.

[Pinbill]

Ok, thanks for getting back to me. I will start a new topic and see if someone out there knows.