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Advice for buying


LucarelliZ

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I’m looking to get a Z in the South Florida area! I’m in love with the original S30 and I have 3 parts cars in my home town 800mi away, but I am really wanting to get something going. I have found some local cars for sale that are various models and conditions. Is there anyway I could ask some advice on which one and on prices? I’m young and completely new to this. I am not in the financial position to get anything outstanding but I am dying to finally have one that I can drive. Please let me know if anyone can help me out? I have under 10k to work with. So any advice or even what you guys would consider reasonable offers on any of these would be appreciated.

 

1st is a 71 240 shell

Coil overs and a lot of work done to it. Appears to have almost no rust. But it has not engine or transmission. Asking 6k

I would love to do this one, but I fear that I won’t have the money to actually get it running anytime soon.

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2nd is a 74 260

Swapped to a l28 with su carbs and headers

5 spd. Runs, but has rust. I’m not sure if it’s too much rust to save. Asking 4.3k

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3rd is a 78 280

18k mi with service receipts. Runs well. Looks like there is minimal rust. He said there is some bubbling under gas cap. Asking $9999, and has been on market for about 6mo. Seems like possibly the best bet, but I am not sure. Also, I don’t quite have the asking price.

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240s, 260s have carbs. 280 are efi. 

That's a line you need to set. Carbs are best imho but an efi once it's working is trouble free mostly.

I like the 280 out your 3 choices.

Hold off another month and search everyday then decide. The bad ones will still be available but the good ones get gone quick.

 

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I feel like the market in this area isn’t the best for selling. I’ve seen some beautiful Zs on Craigslist for over a year that just aren’t selling, but are essentially perfect. However they are asking 20k+. I feel they are reasonably priced for the condition, but I don’t know if the market is here.

What do you think is a reasonable offer on the 280? Like i mentioned, he said there is bubbling under the gas cap and I saw some rust on the front as well. It seems minimal though. He said underneath is completely clean though. I could go see it, but it’s about an hour away.


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3 most important things

No rust

No rust

No rust

Unless you are a good metal fab person anyway. Engine and trans are not that hard to come by. 1000$ would prob get you both with some shopping around.

I like EFI but some folks don't, just depends on your level of understanding electrical stuff.

280z is a heavier, car, better value since 240's tend to be much higher in prices for good ones. That being said I like the heavier 280z since I think they tend to be a bit more comfortable.

South florida means AC is a must unless you like to sweat. In that case a 280z is much more desirable since its AC is more refined and just works better. 240's it was an after thought, 280's was designed for it.

Less customized the better, unless you know the guy that did it, did it right. Stock will be better since you can use the FSM to trouble shoot.

Manual is more generally more desirable, but if you had a nice auto rust free, that would be ok, if you want it manual it can be converted.

on last thing, NO RUST (actually less rust, no such thing as no rust) see if you have a Z guy near you to look at the known trouble spots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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if they are truly perfect, the 10k would account for any rust removal that may have been done. You can find deals at your price range, you just have to keep looking and pounce on it when it comes up. And be prepared to drive, I drove 8 hrs (one way) to get mine. I had a LOT of pic of the underside before committing to it.

Edited by Dave WM
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3 most important things
No rust
No rust
No rust
Unless you are a good metal fab person anyway. Engine and trans are not that hard to come by. 1000$ would prob get you both with some shopping around.
I like EFI but some folks don't, just depends on your level of understanding electrical stuff.
280z is a heavier, car, better value since 240's tend to be much higher in prices for good ones. That being said I like the heavier 280z since I think they tend to be a bit more comfortable.
South florida means AC is a must unless you like to sweat. In that case a 280z is much more desirable since its AC is more refined and just works better. 240's it was an after thought, 280's was designed for it.
Less customized the better, unless you know the guy that did it, did it right. Stock will be better since you can use the FSM to trouble shoot.
Manual is more generally more desirable, but if you had a nice auto rust free, that would be ok, if you want it manual it can be converted.
on last thing, NO RUST (actually less rust, no such thing as no rust) see if you have a Z guy near you to look at the known trouble spots.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The car is completely stock and is a manual. Just had tank cleaned and a full service and compression test.


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if they are truly perfect, the 10k would account for any rust removal that may have been done. You can find deals at your price range, you just have to keep looking and pounce on it when it comes up. And be prepared to drive, I drove 8 hrs (one way) to get mine. I had a LOT of pic of the underside before committing to it.


Would offering a few thousand less be unreasonable on the 280?


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The 240 is the best deal IF its low rust, get an engine for it and do you thing.

then the 280, IF low rust in the problem areas, gets you on the road pronto.

forget the 260 unless you know how to do metal work, 260's are not very desirable.

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2 minutes ago, LucarelliZ said:

 

 


Would offering a few thousand less be unreasonable on the 280?


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depends on the rust. You really have to know where to look. check under carpets for floor board rust, check frame rails, esp under the brake booster, check the rear hatch bottom corners, check the doglegs for filler (magnet), check under the battery, see if it leaks (get in it for a hard rain storm, look for leaks inside the firewall.

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I would love to do the 240, but I have no trailer at the moment to move it. I also don’t know if I would have the funds to get Powertrain bought and installed. I don’t have the space, tools or knowhow to take it on myself sadly. That one would be most ideal for a dream setup though. I would want to do a similar brake and suspension setup that it already has...


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that last pic with the open hatch looks like problems in the corners, known to rust there.

I agree. I already asked about the spare compartment and tray, which he said seemed to be good. I also think I can see some on the door sills, but I’m not sure.


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