Advice for buying

[Dave WM]

7 minutes ago, LucarelliZ said:

I agree. I already asked about the spare compartment and tray, which he said seemed to be good. I also think I can see some on the door sills, but I’m not sure.


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well that's the deal. Rust will eat $$$$ in no time, you really have to get a good look and keep that in mind. you could spend 10k in no time at all getting body and paint if rust is a problem. I would not buy a Z unless I could get it on a lift and really inspect it up close.

If you are a skilled body man, ok, but if you have to pay for it look out. What's the deal on the 240, just another stalled out project car? Too bad. Don't get all hyped up about changing suspension until you have driven in stock form. Save money for body and paint, maint, etc... generally stock setups just need now carts, cheap, stock brakes are very good, the whole darn thing is very good, better to save for maintenance since you are on a tight budget.

Edited June 28, 2019 by Dave WM

[Mark Maras]

 I'd go with #1, even though you don't have a lot of experience. Desire will carry you thru. If all that is missing is the engine and transmission, you could easily get it on the road and use part of your budget for tools. Engines and transmission are cheap and easy to install. The earlier wiring harnesses are relatively simple. SU carbs are easier to deal with than EFI. But as stated above rust is the issue. You could easily eat up your whole budget dealing with rust. Last but not least, a clean 240 will always be more valuable than 260s or 280s.

[LucarelliZ]

The 240 has apparently been the guys project for about 10 years. I think the rust is minimal, but I think it is a complete shell. I know that you can find the stock engine and Tranny for cheap, but I honestly don’t know if I will want that in the long run anyway. The problem is I have no way of moving it and I have nowhere to store it until it is running. Also, I can’t do the work myself currently so I’ll have to be paying for it, which I can’t begin to even imagine the cost of.



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[Dave WM]

wonder if it was stored in a garage, that  is huge in Florida due to all the rain.

[Dave WM]

if you are going to pay to have the work done, you need to adjust your expectations of cost, be prepared for 15-18k and by the best 280z you can find. with that you should find an example that requires little to no work. It will be more that double that if you get a project that needs work to complete and pay someone to do it.

[LucarelliZ]

wonder if it was stored in a garage, that  is huge in Florida due to all the rain.

Both the 240 and 280 were reportedly garage kept. The 280 said it was garage kept its whole life until recently. But yes, I know long run I am going to be spending much more. I plan on spending 15-30k more on top of whatever I am spending now in the long run. My current budget as of TODAY is only 10k. I just REALLY want a Z. The S30 has been one of my dream car since I was little. I am truly in love with them. I am only in my 20s, so Since I can’t get a Ferrari or a 964 911, the Z is my top choice.


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[Dave WM]

z is better than those anyway when you consider cost of maintenance insurance and overall value.

If you are in a hurry and just cant wait to be driving you could try nego the 280z down to about 8k that will give you some wiggle room to fix known rust (I really would look hard at the tail hatch area, battery and esp if there is ANY rust on the inside of the passenger side fire wall. That would indicate a leak at the air chimney, so when it rains you get water coming inside the passenger side. Not and easy fix at all. Old mustangs had the same problem but it was on the driver side. I also would insist on getting it on a lift, with a good strong flashlight. Don't want to see another project car due to body work out there. Again I can not understate the problem of rust, frame rails, strut mounts, floor boards, it all adds up to major money.

[LucarelliZ]

The floor isn’t a huge deal though right? You can get pans for like $100-200 can’t you?


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[Dave WM]

best to let someone else respond to that one. I don't thing good welding comes cheap.

[LucarelliZ]

best to let someone else respond to that one. I don't thing good welding comes cheap.

I do have some friends that could potentially make it more reasonable on welding. But assuming I find anymore rust on the 280 would it make it reasonable to offer even less than 8, or would it make it a no-go all together. It has a little over 18k miles and is supposed to be in great running condition. 2 owner car. Receipts for everything. It seems like it could be a better than decent starting point, but as we’ve been over, I don’t know the full story on any rust. I have 3 cars in Georgia still, but I think they have too much rust to bother with. 72 240 (pretty damn rusty) and 76 and 78 280s. They aren’t nearly as rusty, but still more so than this one down here.


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[Dave WM]

prob 118k or 218k unless there is documentation to support 18k, the odometer only went to 99,999 before restarting. The thing about rust is what you don't see, so if you see any there is prob a lot more hiding. These cars did not have good rust prevention when new, lots of layers of spot welded sheets. This is why is so important to get up close and personal tapping around listening for dull thuds (not good). Never know how someone will react in a nego situation. Some may take offense to a low offer and just tell you to get lost. So you really have to be able to explain that its you taking the gamble, hence the need for a low amount, unless you can get a really really good evaluation to minimize the risk. IF it truly is a low to no rust car then the asking price may be ok. The market will determine that (you said it has not sold for 6 months, if the price has not changed, the market has spoken).

[siteunseen]

Look at the rubber on the pedals. Can't hide that wear.