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Yesterday I put my head on the block. The head gasket that I purchased from MSA didnā€™t have any notes about whether or not to use sealer, and after researching (briefly) online I seemed to find conflicting answers between those who apply head gaskets dry and those who use sealer. So, figuring it couldnā€™t hurt, I squeezed out some Permatex Non Hardening (no. 2) sealer onto both sides of my head gasket.

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Since then, Iā€™ve been wondering if I screwed up by using this sealer on the head gasket in the first place or by applying too much. Hereā€™s an image of how much I applied to the block side of the gasket.

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IMG_3242.jpg

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Is there a chance that this could cause issues by blocking oil passages or deteriorating the gasket itself? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.


I do dry for that reason, potential of clogging a hole.

There's a thin sealer that would work if you want to use some. I use it on all other gaskets just to hold them in place.

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agreed, not to use sealer, and if you did not as much as you have. I removed a OE style head gasket (the kind you have shown) recently and there was NO evidence of gasket sealer. The only time I found in my research about using sealers had to do with solid metal (copper) single layer types and with them there was discussion about a light application of a spray on sealer.

That being said I have fought my own battles with exhaust gases getting into the rad, so take my advise for what its worth. I installed a felpro dry per instructions. Failed the chem test for CO in the rad, but eventually resolved on its own, I have no idea why.

Edited by Dave WM

4 hours ago, Locke said:

Is there a chance that this could cause issues by blocking oil passages or deteriorating the gasket itself? Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

There are only two oil passages and they have their own copper seal.Ā  The copper probably contacted the surfaces before the sealant started squeezing too muchĀ  since they have some crush to them.

The sealant won't cause any deterioration once it sets up.Ā  The non-hardening ones use ethanol as a thinning agent and that's gone almost before you assemble.

Probably not a concern, although "it couldn't hurt" is concerning all by itself.Ā  That's where many problems start...

What brand?Ā  Most have instructions on the old internet.

The gasket is made by Ishino Stone.

Iā€™ve ordered a new one and I think to be safe Iā€™ll pull the head back off, clean up the sealer, and apply the new gasket dry. Or am I freaking myself out about a minor issue?

I think you are doing the right thing...removing head and starting over. I installĀ head gasket, manifold gasket, and valve cover dry. I installĀ the oil pan dry except for a thin layer of black rtv along the join line where the block and front cover meet on both sides.

Dry is fine but other options that are also fine are:

  • Aviation Form a Gasket ( @siteunseen)
  • Copper Spray a Gasket (My fav)
  • Silver Paint
  • Anti-seize brushed on

They seal and allow for easy removal.

Other than to facilitate cleaner removal, if that's something you do a lot, dry is the correct process. The last thing you want is that goopĀ in the oil holes around those copper sealing rings around the two oil passages, The center one seems to have a large blob really near it. Heavy Danger is the term that comes to mind.Ā 

Flat head, flat block, and cleanliness areĀ all you need. The gasket does all the work. If you have corroded water passage holes that extend beyond any gasket hole, take care of those the right way, not with goop.

When I'm using sealer, I almost always use a syringe to put it down. I've found that less is way better than more. Without getting into whether you should have used it at all (or not) on a head gasket, I think you used way too much. @LockeĀ Glad to hear you're starting over.

I'm needing a head gasket sets for my upcoming projects. What was the Stone number on that gasket set?

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