Jump to content
Email-only Log-Ins Coming in December ×

IGNORED

Ron Tyler (RT) differential mount dimensions


Jeff Berk

Recommended Posts

Could someone that has, or is knowledgeable about the Ron Tyler differential mount look at the dimensions of the mount on the listed URL and verify that it is valid for a  Z application with an L28 engine/R200 differential? The mount was originally designed for a Chevy V8 conversion so I'm concerned that it might alter the driveshaft angle and put stress on the universal joint.  I'm planning on building one using Alteredz.com as a guide. I'm assuming that RT has not patented his design.

 http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm

ron_tyler_diff_mount_diag.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I have one in my '70 model  with the stock 3.36.   There is a polyurethane snubber mounted in it to limit the upward movement.  You shave that down to fit the differential that you have.  It does not affect the drive shaft angle at all.

That looks like it may be the dimensions on his first iteration.  Hi later versions have a notch built in to go around the brake lines on one side.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It won't stress the u-joint but it might lead to vibration due to u-joint misalignment.  The transmission output shaft and the diff  input shaft are supposed to be parallel within a few degrees.  Most people don't have problems with it though, apparently it's "close enough".

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a note, the RT mount has a notch in one top corner so the bracket goes around the brake/fuel lines that come close in trans tunnel. T3's mount shows the notch.

4FEF8C2A-5E63-43BA-907C-03EEC299F131-941-000000E1C48CBD45.jpg

Also, as long as you don't use a GM poly mount (shown in the pic above) to hang your diff from the RT mount, rather just use a snubber above the diff to "squeeze" the diff nose against the snubber/top of RT mount, and continue to use the stock cross member to mount the diff, drive shaft angles are not altered much over stock. You use one of the Energy suspension generic stepped round snubber thingy's and cut off some of it.  

2A9137AF-7A3A-474C-96B7-15AC2CEC7001-941-000000E2941E1CA8.jpg

The snubber shown above gets cut until about 3 steps are left?  The ES one I've used only have 4 steps I think and you leave 2.

Which reminds me. I may have a few of these brackets (local made) laying around that I had made a while ago.... Let me know if you need one.

Edited by zKars
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/22/2019 at 3:43 PM, grannyknot said:

@Zed Head, as much as I like the RT mount I'm still impressed with the simplicity of the mount you made.

Thanks GN.  It was a fun project.   I realized afterward that a person could probably bend a single piece of steel to fit the bolt positions on the side of the tunnel, then drill holes for mounting and the the GM mount.  No welding, just good bending and 5-6 holes drilled.  

That Technoversion mount is a pretty nice piece of work.  Hard to do it yourself for the same value.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The only reason I'd DIY the mount is that I like to find a reason to use the metal shop I have access to and to make whatever parts I can for my Z. Looks like this will have to wait, just found out my camshaft needs replacing (ouch).

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 842 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.